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Nonlinear Model of mean free surface of Waves

China Ocean Engineering 1999年第2期14卷 155-162页

作者： Nicholas DODD Ph. D. Coastal Group HR Wallingford Howbery Park Wallingford

A nonlinear model of mean free surface of waves or wave set-up is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method (Watson el al., 1992), with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave set-up. The short wave (or primary wave) energy equation is solved by use of a more traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. A nonlinear wave theory (James, 1974) is introduced. The model described in this paper is found to be satisfactory in most respects when compared with the measurements conducted by Stive (1983) except in modeling the mean free surface very close to the mean shoreline.

关键词： mean free surface radiation stress hyperbolic wave theory nonlinear model wave propagation

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Improvements on mean free Wave surface Modeling

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China Ocean Engineering 2002年第4期17卷 549-560页

作者：董国海滕斌程亮 The State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of TechnologyDalian 116023China Department of Civil Engineering The University of Western AustraliaNedlandsWestern Australia 6907Australia

Some new results of the modeling of mean free surface of waves or wave set-up are presented. The stream function wave theory is applied to incident short waves. The limiting wave steepness is adopted as the wave breaker index in the calculation of wave breaking dissipation. The model is based on Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method (Watson et al., 1992), with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave set-up. The short wave (or incident primary wave) energy equation is solved by use of a traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. The present model is found to be satisfactory compared with the measurements conducted by Stive (1983).

关键词： mean free surface radiation stress wave breaker index limiting wave steepness stream function wave theory

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