Nonlinear Model of Mean Free Surface of Waves

作     者：Nicholas DODD 

作者机构：Ph. D. Coastal Group HR Wallingford Howbery Park Wallingford 

出 版 物：《China Ocean Engineering》 (中国海洋工程（英文版）)

年 卷 期：1999年第14卷第2期

页      面：155-162页

核心收录：

学科分类：080103[工学-流体力学] 08[工学] 080104[工学-工程力学] 081502[工学-水力学及河流动力学] 0815[工学-水利工程] 0801[工学-力学（可授工学、理学学位）] 

基　　金：National Natural Science Foundation of China.(No.19732004) 

主　　题：mean free surface radiation stress hyperbolic wave theory nonlinear model wave propagation 

摘      要：A nonlinear model of mean free surface of waves or wave set-up is presented. The model is based on that of Roelvink (1993), but the numerical techniques used in the solution are based on the Weighted-Average Flux (WAF) method (Watson el al., 1992), with Time-Operator-Splitting (TOS) used for the treatment of the source terms. This method allows a small number of computational points to be used, and is particularly efficient in modeling wave set-up. The short wave (or primary wave) energy equation is solved by use of a more traditional Lax-Wendroff technique. A nonlinear wave theory (James, 1974) is introduced. The model described in this paper is found to be satisfactory in most respects when compared with the measurements conducted by Stive (1983) except in modeling the mean free surface very close to the mean shoreline.