牛仔布质量关键因素评估的实验研究

作     者：Nazmus Sakib 

作者单位：浙江理工大学 

学位级别：硕士

导师姓名：方园;祝国成

授予年度：2019年

学科分类：0821[工学-纺织科学与工程] 08[工学] 082102[工学-纺织材料与纺织品设计] 

主      题：Denim Quality Weaving Tensile Strength Tear Strength Desizing Finishing 

摘      要：Uses of denim are increasing day by day because of its flexibility,comfortability,and variety.For the last few years,there are lots of development invented for making better quality and comfortable denim.Consumers not only search for fashionable garments,but also want comfortable and quality garments.Clothing comfort has been identified as one of the key attributes in consumers perception of the desirability of apparel products in all markets.Despite the extensive research in the area of comfort perception and clothing,there are still uncertainties with regard to fabric or garment design.Nowadays garments are evaluated according to how good quality fabric is used for it.Good quality garments can be defined when Psychological,sensorial,and thermos physiological comfort can be ensured.Thermo-physiological comfort was affected by the fiber type,fiber fineness,yarn quality,fabric structure,and finishing treatments.And it is very important to understand how different factors affect the quality of denim.So all of our focus should be on making perfect quality denim.As we know different construction,different fiber content has different properties,which has different influences on quality.Therefore,in this study,I used five different denim samples where constructions are different but fiber content is same for these five samples.98%cotton&2%Lycra is used for this experiment.High quality denim means high performance fabric,which must be ensured by quality tests like tensile strength,tear strength,dimensional stability,and color fastness to wash,water&rubbing.All these results fulfill customer s valuable requirements.To relate customers claim the quality test is a good way to evaluate if there is any problem,what is the problem,even if it is a problem or how to solve it.The study shows that to ensure high quality is the only way of high quality denim and jeans on the point of the differences how quality changes in terms of denim construction and finish.So in my study I discuss about these quality tests.We also notice that different ply of yarns,different count of yarn,absorbency of fabric plays vital role for changing fabric quality like Tensile strength,Tear strength,abrasion and pilling properties.Besides,desizing is the first process before washing.Desizing plays one of the vital role for getting a good quality denim.There are many chemicals are available for desizing.Therefore,in this study,I used Detergent,Alpha amylase enzyme,Caustic soda(NaOH),Sodium carbonate(Na2CO3),Acetic acid(CH3COOH)and Hydrogen peroxide(H2O2)for desizing of denim fabrics.Meanwhile,the strength test,fabric density test,gsm test,shrinkage test,air permeability test,absorbency test were done to observe the effectiveness of above desizing chemicals.Finally,we can say for denim desizing,alpha amylase enzyme,detergent and caustic soda can be used where enzyme shows good all over results.It helps the further washing process easier by removing sizing chemicals properly.