One-Dimensional Horizontal Boussinesq Model Enhanced for Non-Breaking and Breaking Waves

作     者：董国海 马小舟 滕斌 

作者机构：The State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore EngineeringDalian University of Technology 

出 版 物：《China Ocean Engineering》 (中国海洋工程（英文版）)

年 卷 期：2008年第22卷第1期

页      面：31-42页

核心收录：

学科分类：081505[工学-港口、海岸及近海工程] 08[工学] 0815[工学-水利工程] 0824[工学-船舶与海洋工程] 0814[工学-土木工程] 082401[工学-船舶与海洋结构物设计制造] 

基　　金：This work was financially supported by the National Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No.50679010) 

主　　题：Boussinesq model surf zone wave breaking wave run- up 

摘      要：Based on a set of fully nonlinear Boussinesq equations up to the order of O（μ^2, ε^3μ^2） （where ε is the ratio of wave amplitude to water depth and ,μ is the ratio of water depth to wave length） a numerical wave model is formulated. The model＇s linear dispersion is acceptably accurate to μ ≌ 1.0, which is confirmed by comparisons between the simulat- ed and measured time series of the regular waves propagating on a submerged bar. The moving shoreline is treated numer- ically by replacing the solid beach with a permeable beach. Run-up of nonbreaking waves is verified against the analytical solution for nonlinear shallow water waves. The inclusion of wave breaking is fulfilled by introducing an eddy term in the momentum equation to serve as the breaking wave force term to dissipate wave energy in the surf zone. The model is applied to cross-shore motions of regular waves including various types of breaking on plane sloping beaches. Comparisons of the model test results comprising spatial distribution of wave height and mean water level with experimental data are presented.