Study on the Propagation and Focusing Mechanism of Long Waves over A Submerged Atoll

作     者：FU Dan-juan LIU Bi-jin ZHENG Jin-hai WANG Gang CHEN Bi-qin FU Dan-juan;LIU Bi-jin;ZHENG Jin-hai;WANG Gang;CHEN Bi-qin

作者机构：School of Civil Engineering and ArchitectureXiamen University of TechnologyXiamen 361024China Hainan InstituteZhejiang UniversitySanya 572025China Key Laboratory of Coastal Disaster and ProtectionMinistry of EducationHohai UniversityNanjing 210098China Fujian Polytechnic of Information TechnologyFuzhou 350003China 

出 版 物：《China Ocean Engineering》 (中国海洋工程（英文版）)

年 卷 期：2023年第37卷第2期

页      面：204-217页

核心收录：

学科分类：07[理学] 0707[理学-海洋科学] 0815[工学-水利工程] 0824[工学-船舶与海洋工程] 0802[工学-机械工程] 0814[工学-土木工程] 

基　　金：financially supported by Hainan Provincial Natural Science Foundation of China (Grant No. 422MS090) Fujian Provincial Natural Scienceof China (Grant No. 2022J05282) 2020 Xiamen Youth Innovation Fund Project of China (Grant No.3502Z20206069) 

主　　题：long waves analytic solution wave scattering submerged atoll wave propagation 

摘      要：An analytical solution for long waves propagating over a submerged atoll is established. The atolls involved in this study are annular coral reefs with large lagoons in the middle, and the expression of the cross section is a trinomial function of the radial distance, i.e., h=ar(2s)-br~s+h_0, where s is the positive rational number. This analytical solution extends the theory by Wang et al.(2018) as s is no longer limited to s=2/m, where m is the positive integer. In addition, by adjusting the terrain parameters properly, the analytic solution can be degenerated to describe the wave propagation over topography with a hump or pit. According to the relationship between wave rays and wave energy, the distribution characteristics and formation mechanism of energy over the topography are expounded. When the lagoon is non-existent, all wave rays converge at the x-axis, which results in an abrupt amplification of the wave amplitude around the convergence point. When a lagoon is mounted on the top of the atoll, the rays are scattered due to the refraction of the lagoon, and only some rays converge at the symmetrical axis and the ridges on both sides,which results in the amplification of wave amplitudes in these areas.