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Numerical study on water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obaky coastal water

Acta Oceanologica Sinica 2014年第9期33卷 40-46页

作者： TANG Jun LYU Yigang SHEN Yongming State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology

In this paper, the water waves and wave-induced longshore currents in Obak6y coastal water which is located at the Mediterranean coast of Turkey were numerically studied. The numerical model is based on the parabolic mild-slope equation for coastal water waves and the nonlinear shallow water equation for the wave-induced currents. The wave transformation under the effects of shoaling, refraction, diffraction and breaking is considered, and the wave provides radiation stresses for driving currents in the model. The numerical results for the water wave-induced longshore currents were validated by the measured data to demonstrate the efficiency of the numerical model. Then the water waves and longshore currents induced by the waves from main directions were numerically simulated and analyzed based on the numerical results. The numerical results show that the movement of the longshore currents was different while the wave proDaRated to a coastal zone from different directions.

关键词： coast hydrodynamics water wave mild-slope equation wave-induced currents numerical modeling

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Three-dimensional unstructured modelling of wave-induced circulation over a plane and irregular beach

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Journal of Hydrodynamics 2016年第2期28卷 219-226页

作者：汪求顺康海贵王科 Zhejiang Institute of Hydraulics and Estuary Hangzhou 310020 China State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology Dalian 116024 China State Key Laboratory of Structural Analysis for Industrial Equipment Dalian University of Technology Dalian 116024 China

Nearshore currents have a complicated circulation structure over a beach due to the mutual interaction between waves and currents. To investigate the wave-induced circulation over a beach, a three-dimensional unstructured model accounting for the combined actions of waves and currents is established. The wave distribution over the beach is computed by a wave model and the depth-dependent wave radiation stresses with the surface roller are employed in the hydrodynamic model. The present model takes the mixing coefficients and the bottom shear stress under waves and currents into account. To evaluate the three-dimensional unstructured model, the laboratory experiments over a plane and irregular beach are used to test the performance of the model. The undertow over a plane beach is well reproduced and the vertical variability is captured. The performance of the model over an irregular beach is well displayed in the reproduction of pairs of cotmter-rotating primary circulations at the embayment troughs. Meanwhile, the secondary circulations are observed in the swash zone. The model captures the circulation systems over a beach and the circulation structures of the wave-induced currents are well exhibited.

关键词： unstructured model wave-induced currents depth-dependent wave stress circulation structures

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维普期刊数据库

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Three-dimensional numerical modeling of nearshore circulation

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Acta Oceanologica Sinica 2008年第Z1期27卷 101-118页

作者： SUN Detong South Florida Water Management District West Palm Beach FL 33406 U S A

A three-dimensional nearshore circulation model was developed by coupling CH3D, a three-dimensional hydrodynamic model and REF/DIF, a nearshore wave transformation model. The model solves the three-dimensional wave-averaged equations of motion. wave-induced effects on circulation were introduced in the form of radiation stresses, wave-induced mass transport, wave-induced enhancement of bottom friction and wave-induced turbulent mixing. Effects of breaking waves were considered following Svendsen (1984a and 1984b) and Stive and Wind (1986). The model was successfully tested against the analytical solution of longshore currents by Longuet and Higgins (1970). The model successfully simulated the undertow as observed in a laboratory experiment by Stive and Wind (1982). In addition, the model was applied to a physical model by Mory and Hamm (1997) and successfully reproduced the eddy behind a detached breakwater as well as the longshore current on the open beach and the contiguous eddy in the open area of the wave tank. While the qualitative agreement between model results and experimental observations was very good, the quantitative agreement needs to be further improved. Albeit difficult to explain every discrepancy between the model results and observations, in general, sources of errors are attributed to the lack of understanding and comprehensive description of following processes: (1)the horizontal and vertical distribution of radiation stress, especially for breaking waves;(2)the detailed structure of turbulence;(3)wave-current interaction (not included at this moment); and (4)the wave-current boundary layer and the resulting bottom shear stress.

关键词： waves wave-induced currents 3D model radiation stress breaking waves surface roller undertow longshore currents nearshore circulation

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