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A Numerical Model of Coastal Processes of Sand Beaches Based on Long-Term wave series

China Ocean Engineering 1995年第2期10卷 139-148页

作者： Zhang Changkuan, Wang Zhen and Zhang Dongsheng Associate Professor, Dept. of Navigation and Ocean Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210024 Lecturer, Dept. of Navigation and Ocean Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210024 Professor, Dept. of Navigation and Ocean Engineering, Hohai University, Nanjing 210024

A numerical model of shoreline change of sand beaches based on long-term field wave data is proposed, the explicit and implicit finite difference forms of the model are described, and an application of the model is presented. Results of the application indicate that the model is sensitive to the order of the input wave data, and that the effects of long-term wave series and the effects of the mean annual wave conditions on the model are different. Instead of a single wave condition, the wave series will make the calibration and the verification of the model more practical and the results of the model more reasonable.

关键词： sand beach coastal process numerical model wave series

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Probability Distribution Characteristics of Strong Nonlinear waves Under Typhoon Conditions in the Northern South China Sea

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Journal of Ocean University of China 2024年第3期23卷 583-593页

作者： GONG Yijie XIE Botao FU Dianfu WANG Zhifeng PANG Liang College of Engineering Ocean University of ChinaQingdao 266100China CNOOC Research Institute Ltd. Beijing 100028China

The generation and propagation mechanism of strong nonlinear waves in the South China Sea is an essential research area. In this study, the third-generation wave model waveWATCH Ⅲ is employed to simulate wave fields under extreme sea states. The model, integrating the ST6 source term, is validated against observed data, demonstrating its credibility. The spatial distribution of the occurrence probability of strong nonlinear waves during typhoons is shown, and the waves in the straits and the northeastern part of the South China Sea show strong nonlinear characteristics. The high-order spectral model HOS-ocean is employed to simulate the random wave surface series beneath five different platform areas. The waves during the typhoon exhibit strong nonlinear characteristics, and freak waves exist. The space-varying probability model is established to describe the short-term probability distribution of nonlinear wave series. The exceedance probability distributions of the wave surface beneath different platform areas are compared and analyzed. The results show that with an increase in the platform area, the probability of a strong nonlinear wave beneath the platform increases.

关键词： strong nonlinear wave typhoon wave series probability distribution model exceedance probability

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