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Statistical Analyses of wave height distribution for Multidirectional Irregular waves over A Sloping Bottom

China Ocean Engineering 2021年第4期35卷 504-517页

作者： GAO Jun-liang CHEN Hong-zhou MEI Li-li LIU Zhen LIU Qian School of Naval Architecture and Ocean Engineering Jiangsu University of Science and TechnologyZhenjiang 212100China School of Marine Engineering Equipment Zhejiang Ocean UniversityZhoushan 316022China Henan Province Construction Engineering Quality Inspection and Testing Center Station Co.Ltd. Zhengzhou 450053China State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of TechnologyDalian 116024China

The main objective of this paper is to examine the influences of both the principal wave direction and the directional spreading parameter of the wave energy on the wave height evolution of multidirectional irregular waves over an impermeable sloping bottom and to propose an improved wave height distribution model based on an existing classical *** numerical model FUNwave 2.0,based on a fully nonlinear Boussinesq equation,is employed to simulate the propagation of multidirectional irregular waves over the sloping *** of wave heights derived from wave trains with various principal wave directions and different directional spreading parameters are *** show that both the principal wave direction and the wave directional spread have significant influences on the wave height evolution on a varying coastal *** shoaling effect for the wave height is obviously weakened with the increase of the principal wave direction and with the decrease of the directional spreading *** the simulated data,the classical Klopman wave height distribution model is improved by considering the influences of both *** is found that the improved model performs better in describing the wave height distribution for the multidirectional irregular waves in shallow water.

关键词： wave height distribution multidirectional waves irregular waves sloping bottom FUNwave 2.0 model

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Dependence of wave height distribution on Spectral Width and wave Steepness

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海洋工程：英文版 2004年第4期18卷 663-668页

作者：文凡吴自库吕红民 Laboratory of Physical Oceanography Ocean University of China Qingdao 266003 China

In this paper experimental wind wave data are analyzed. It is found that differences in spectral width will give rise to differences in wave height distribution. The effect of spectral width on the distribution is mainly in the high wave range. The effect of wave steepness is in low, medium and high wave ranges. In the high wave range the effect of spectral width is comparable to that of wave steepness. Differences in spectral width in the observations may give rise to discrepancies in the result when wave steepness is the only parameter in the distribution.

关键词： wave height distribution spectral width wave steepness

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Laboratory Study of the Nonlinear Transformation of Irregular waves over A Mild Slope

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China Ocean Engineering 2014年第4期28卷 489-500页

作者：于博马玉祥马小舟董国海 State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology

This paper considers the nonlinear transformation of irregular waves propagating over a mild slope （1：40）. Two cases of irregular waves, which are mechanically generated based on JONSWAP spectra, are used for this purpose. The results indicate that the wave heights obey the Rayleigh distribution at the offshore location; however, in the shoaling region, the heights of the largest waves are underestimated by the theoretical distributions. In the surf zone, the wave heights can be approximated by the composite Weibull distribution. In addition, the nonlinear phase coupling within the irregular waves is investigated by the wavelet-based bicoherence. The bicoherence spectra reflect that the number of frequency modes participating in the phase coupling increases with the decreasing water depth, as does the degree of phase coupling. After the incipient breaking, even though the degree of phase coupling decreases, a great number of higher harmonic wave modes are also involved in nonlinear interactions. Moreover, the summed bicoherence indicates that the frequency mode related to the strongest local nonlinear interactions shifts to higher harmonics with the decreasing water depth.

关键词： irregular waves shallow water nonlinear interactions wave height distribution wavelet bicoherence

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Computation of Long-Term Statistical Properties of wave Agitation in Harbors

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China Ocean Engineering 1998年第3期13卷 285-296页

作者： LIN Jaw-Guei TUNG Chi C. Associate Professor Department of Harbor and River Engineering National Taiwan Ocean University KeelungTaiwan China. Professor Department of Civil Engineering North Carolina State University Raleigh North Carolina U. S. A.

In this paper, the long-term statistical properties of wave height in an idealized square harbor with a partial opening are studied. The incident waves are propagated into the harbor numerically by the finite/infinite element method using three different wave models: (1) monochromatic wave train, (2) long-crested random wave train, and (3) short-crested random wave train. This study shows that for a given incident wave, the wave height in the harbor is affected by the wave model used. For long-term estimation of wave height exceedance probability, it is recommended that the waves be propagated into the harbor using the random wave model, and that wave heights be computed by use of the Rayleigh probability distribution.

关键词： harbor oscillation numerical simulation wave height distribution

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A Comparative Study of the Statistical distributions of wave heights

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China Ocean Engineering 1997年第3期12卷 285-304页

作者： JohnZ.Yin Dr.-Ing. Associate ProfessorDepartment of Harbour and River EngineeringNational Taiwan Ocean UniversityKeelungTaiwan

distribution of wave heights and surface elevations of wind-driven waves are studied. Records of surface elevations obtained from both field observations and laboratory measurements are analyzed. wave heights can be approximated by normal, two-parameter Weibull, and/or Rayleigh distribution. However, while the first two models may have almost equal probabilities to fit measured data quite satisfactorily, the Rayleigh distribution does not appear to be a good model for the majority of the cases studied. Surface elevations from field data are well described by the Gaussian model, but as with increasing wind speeds, water surface in a wind-wave flume deviates from normality, and the Edgeworth/s form of the type A Gram-Charlier series is then applied.

关键词： zero-crossing methods wave height distribution statistical models

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Influence of wave Breaking on wave Statistics for Finite-Depth Random wave Trains

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Journal of Marine Science and Application 2010年第1期9卷 8-13页

作者：赵西增孙昭晨 RIAM Kyushu University State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology

The influence of wave breaking on wave statistics for finite-depth random wave trains is investigated experimentally. This paper is to investigate the influence of wave breaking and water depth on the wave statistics for random waves on water of finite depth. Greater attention is paid to changes in wave statistics due to wave breaking in random wave trains. The results show skewness of surface elevations is independent of wave breaking and kurtosis is suppressed by wave breaking. Finally, the exceedance probabilities for wave heights are also investigated.

关键词： wave breaking wave statistics wave height distribution skewness kurtosis

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