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An interpretation of wave refraction and its influence on foreshore sediment distribution

Acta Oceanologica Sinica 2019年第5期38卷 151-160页

作者： Vincent Jayaraj Joevivek Nainarpandian Chandrasekar Ramakrishnan Jayangondaperumal Vikram Chandra Thakur Krishnan Shree Purniema Akshaya College of Engineering and Technology Centre for GeoTechnology Manonmaniam Sundaranar University Francis Xavier Engineering College Structure and Tectonics Group Wadia Institute of Himalayan Geology

To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the coast at 45° during the northeast(NE) monsoon, at 135° during the southwest(SW) monsoon and at 90° during the non-monsoon or fair-weather period with a predominant wave period of 8 and 10 s. A computer based wave refraction pattern is constructed to evaluate the trajectories of shoreward propagating waves along the coast in different seasons. The convergent wave rays during NE monsoon, leads to high energy wave condition which conveys a continuous erosion at foreshore region while divergent and inept condition of rays during the SW and non-monsoon, leads to moderate and less energy waves that clearly demarcates the rebuilt beach sediments through littoral sediment transport. The role of wave refraction in foreshore deposits was understood by grain size and depositional environment analysis. The presence of fine grains with the mixed population, during the NE monsoon reveals that the high energy wave condition and sediments were derived from beach and river environment. Conversely, the presence of medium grains with uniform population, during SW and non-monsoon attested less turbulence and sediments were derived from prolong propagation of onshore-offshore wave *** upshots are apparently correlated with the in situ beach condition. On the whole, from this study it is understood that beaches underwent erosion during the NE monsoon and restored its original condition during the SW and non-monsoon seasons that exposed the stability of the beach and nearshore condition.

关键词： foreshore grain size wave refraction sediment transport beach India

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Short-Term Assessment of Retreating vs. Advancing Microtidal Beaches Based on the Backshore/foreshore Length Ratio: Examples from the Basilicata Coasts (Southern Italy)

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Open Journal of Marine Science 2015年第1期5卷 123-145页

作者： Sergio G. Longhitano Department of Sciences Basilicata University Potenza Italy

A straightforward conceptual method is proposed to quantitatively assess the seasonal-scale tendency of retreatment or advancement on microtidal beaches by using the backshore/foreshore length ratio. This method is based on measuring the cross-shore profile of a beach when it passes through the “transitional state” that separates the high-from the low-energy season, period during which the morphological characteristics of the beach tend to its equilibrium profile. In order to obtain real measurements of backshore (B) and foreshore (F), the definition of the limits bounding these two important components in subaerial beaches is reviewed and discussed. The approach based on the measurement of the?B/F?length ratio assumes that foreshore and backshore have equivalent lengths in beaches that approximate to their state of morphodynamic equilibrium (B/F?~ 1). A backshore length exceeding the foreshore length is indicative of a state of beach recession, with a?B/F?length ratio > 1. When the foreshore length is greater than the backshore length, the shoreline is advancing or, alternatively, it is developing in a state of morphological confinement,?i.e.?due to the presence of a sea cliff, with a?B/F?< 1. This practical method is then tested against 36 sand and gravel microtidal beach profiles measured along the coasts of Basilicata, in southern Italy. The various “beach states” are summarised into seven classes (I-VII), each identified from specific value intervals of the?B/F?length ratio.

关键词： Beach Profile Subaerial Beach Backshore foreshore Equilibrium Profile

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新型护岸材料foreshore浆垫的分析与应用

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水利水电技术 2001年第11期32卷 50-51页

作者：于强傅妮水利部长江水利委员会长江勘测规划设计研究院湖北武汉430010

由澳大利亚发明和生产的水泥浆垫foreshore是一种具有高拉力、稳定性及滤水性的由多重聚脂纤维编织的双层垫,灌入砂浆固定成型采用现场灌浆充填技术,整体施工质量控制好.foreshore包括有反滤排水点浆垫、无反滤排水点浆垫、铰链块型... 详细信息

由澳大利亚发明和生产的水泥浆垫foreshore是一种具有高拉力、稳定性及滤水性的由多重聚脂纤维编织的双层垫,灌入砂浆固定成型采用现场灌浆充填技术,整体施工质量控制好.foreshore包括有反滤排水点浆垫、无反滤排水点浆垫、铰链块型浆垫和植草型浆垫本文介绍了铰链块型浆垫的规格、性能指标和施工方法foreshore的最大优点是整体性能超群,抗冲击能力强,便于机械化施工,可减轻劳动强度和减少管理维护工程及费用。

关键词：护岸材料水泥浆垫 foreshore 施工方法

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foreshore水泥浆垫

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江苏水利 1999年第2期 30-30页

foreshore有限公司生产的foreshore水泥浆垫是一种由强度高、稳定性和滤水性好的复丝聚脂纤维编成双层织物,灌入水泥浆液而固定成型的浆垫。能耐酸、耐碱且不受有机溶剂和有机物腐蚀。可用于水面和水下,是护堤工程中最先进、最快速经济... 详细信息

foreshore有限公司生产的foreshore水泥浆垫是一种由强度高、稳定性和滤水性好的复丝聚脂纤维编成双层织物,灌入水泥浆液而固定成型的浆垫。能耐酸、耐碱且不受有机溶剂和有机物腐蚀。可用于水面和水下,是护堤工程中最先进、最快速经济的新技术。

关键词：水泥浆 foreshore 双层织物机织物

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非金属建筑新材料——foreshore堤坝护垫及应用

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江淮水利科技 2008年第1期 49-49页

澳大利亚foreshore公司制造的堤坝护垫是专利高科技产品,属非金属类建筑材料,是由具有高拉力、稳定性及高滤水性的多重聚脂纤维编制而成的双层织物。它可按照现场地形需求,随时缝制、铺设及注入砂浆固定成型。该产

关键词：堤坝护垫 foreshore 建筑

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非金属建筑新材料——foreshore堤坝护垫及应用

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江淮水利科技 2009年第4期 49-49页

澳大利亚foreshore公司制造的堤坝护垫是专利高科技产品,属非金属类建筑材料,是由具有高拉力、稳定性及高滤水性的多重聚脂纤维编制而成的双

关键词：堤坝护垫 foreshore 建筑

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Beach stabilization by the laying of a drainage layer

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Science China(Technological Sciences) 2012年第9期55卷 2625-2639页

作者： HUR Dong-Soo LEE Woo-Dong CHO Won-Chul Department of Ocean Civil Engineering(Institute of Marine Industry) Gyeongsang National University445 Inpyeong-dongTongyeong 650-160Korea Department of Ocean Civil Engineering Gyeongsang National University445 Inpyeong-dongTongyeong 650-160Korea Department of Civil and Environmental Engineering Chung-Ang University221 Heuksuk-dong Dongjak-guSeoul 156-756Korea

In the present study, the stabilization effects of the laying of a drainage layer in a sandy beach were analyzed. The numerical model developed by Hur et al. （2011） was used to examine the characteristics of wave-sandy beach interaction with/without a drainage layer. This numericai model directly simulates Wave-Structure-Seabed/Sandy （WASS） beach interaction by consid- ering flow through a porous medium with inertia, laminar and turbulent resistances, and determines the eddy viscosity with the Large Eddy Simulation （LES） turbulent model in a 3-D wave field （LES-WASS-3D）. Based on the numerical results, it ap- pears that the installation of a drainage layer in the beach results in a decrease in both the mean groundwater level around the foreshore and the flow moving offshore on the beach surface. Spatial distributions of the mean groundwater level and wave setup around the foreshore with various arrangements of the drainage layer and conditions of the incident wave are also discussed in this paper.

关键词： drainage layer groundwater level foreshore LES-WASS-3D (3-D numerical simulation) beach stabilization swash zone

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