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Nonlinear Dispersion Effect on wave transformation

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China Ocean Engineering 2000年第3期15卷 375-384页

作者：李瑞杰李东永 Department of Civil Engineering Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao 266003 China Coastal and Harbor Engineering Research Centre Korea Ocean Research and Development Institute (KORDI) Seoul 425600 Ansan P. O. Box 29 South Korea

A new nonlinear dispersion relation is given in this paper, which can overcome the limitation of the intermediate minimum value in the dispersion relation proposed by Kirby and Dalrymple (1986). and which has a better approximation to Hedges' empirical relation than the modified relations by Hedges (1987). Kirby and Dalrymple (1987) for shallow waters. The new dispersion relation is simple in form, thus it can be used easily in practice. Meanwhile, a general explicit approximation to the new dispersion and other and other nonlinear dispersion relations is given. By use of the explicit approximation to the new dispersion relation along with the mild slope equation taking into account weakly nonlinenr effect, a mathematical model is obtained, and it is applied to laboratory data. The results show that the model developed with the new dispersion relation predicts wave transformation over complicated topography quite well.

关键词： nonlinear dispersion relation explicit approximation wave transformation mild slope equation

On Radiation Boundary Conditions and wave transformation Across the Surf Zone

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China Ocean Engineering 2001年第3期16卷 395-406页

作者：许泰文温志中 Department of Hydraulics and Ocean Engineering National Cheng Kung University

The purpose of this paper is to extend the validity of Li's parabolic model (1994) by incorporating a combined energy factor in the mild-slope equation and by improving the traditional radiation boundary conditions. With wave breaking and energy dissipation expressed in a direct form in the equation, the proposed model could provide an efficient numerical scheme and accurate predictions of wave transformation across the surf zone. The radiation boundary conditions are iterated in the model without use of approximations. The numerical predictions for wave height distributions across the surf zone are compared with experimental data over typical beach profiles. In addition, tests of waves scattering around a circular pile show that the proposed model could also provide reasonable improvement on the radiation boundary conditions for large incident angles of waves.

关键词： radiation boundary condition wave transformation mild-slope equation surf zone

Mathematical model of wave transformation over radial sand ridge field on continental shelf of South Yellow Sea

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Water Science and Engineering 2010年第1期3卷 36-46页

作者： Yao-zhong YANG Wei-bing FENG College of Harbor Coastal and Offshore Engineering Hohai University Nanjing 210098 P. R. China

According to a deformed mild-slope equation derived by Guang-wen Hong and an enhanced numerical method, a wave refraction-diffraction nonlinear mathematical model that takes tidal level change and the high-order bathymetry factor into account has been developed. The deformed mild-slope equation is used to eliminate the restriction of wave length on calculation steps. Using the hard disk to record data during the calculation process, the enhanced numerical method can save computer memory space to a certain extent, so that a large-scale sea area can be calculated with high-resolution grids. This model was applied to wave field integral calculation over a radial sand ridge field in the South Yellow Sea. The results demonstrate some features of the wave field：（1） the wave-height contour lines are arc-shaped near the shore; （2） waves break many times when they propagate toward the shore; （3） wave field characteristics on the northern and southern sides of Huangshayang are different; and （4） the characteristics of wave distribution match the terrain features. The application of this model in the region of the radial sand ridge field suggests that it is a feasible way to analyze wave refraction-diffraction effects under natural sea conditions.

关键词： wave transformation mathematical model radial sand ridge field South Yellow Sea

The wave transformation and breaking phenomena in shallow water

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Acta Oceanologica Sinica 1996年第2期15卷 261-272页

作者： Li Yucheng(Dalian University of Technology, Dalian 116023, China) Dalian University of Technology Dalian 116023 China

Based on the principle of wave action flux conservation, the following problems are analyzed in the present study:the transformation of wave and wave spectrum in currents, the change of current velocity profile alongside water depth due to the existence of waves, the breaking criteria of irregular waves, a new hybrid method for the analysis of wave transformation and breaking on slope, the VOF mehtod for calculating broken waves and the transformation of directional wave spectrum in currents.

关键词： wave transformation wave breaking directional wave spectrum

Nonlinear Dispersion Relation in wave transformation

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海洋工程：英文版 2003年第1期17卷 117-122页

作者：李瑞杰严以新曹宏生 Research Institute of Coastal and Ocean Engineering Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute

A nonlinear dispersion relation is presented to model the nonlinear dispersion of waves over the whole range of possible water depths. It reduces the phase speed over prediction of both Hedges′ modified relation and Kirby and Dalrymple′s modified relation in the region of 1wave steepness and maintains the monotonicity in phase speed variation for large wave steepness. And it has a simple form. By use of the new nonlinear dispersion relation along with the mild slope equation taking into account weak nonlinearity, a mathematical model of wave transformation is developed and applied to laboratory data. The results show that the model with the new dispersion relation can predict wave transformation over complicated bathymetry satisfactorily.

关键词： nonlinear dispersion relation wave transformation mild slope equation numerical simulation

Analytical solution of ground-borne vibration due to a spatially periodic harmonic moving load in a tunnel embedded in layered soil

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Journal of Zhejiang University-Science A(Applied Physics & Engineering) 2023年第7期24卷 637-652页

作者： Lihui XU Meng MA Key Laboratory of Urban Underground Engineering of Ministry of Education Beijing Jiaotong UniversityBeijing 100044China School of Civil Engineering Beijing Jiaotong UniversityBeijing 100044China

In this study,we propose a novel coupled periodic tunnel–soil analytical model for predicting ground-borne vibrations caused by vibration sources in *** problem of a multilayered soil overlying a semi-infinite half-space was solved using the transfer matrix *** account for the interactions between the soil layer and tunnel structure,the transformation characteristics between cylindrical waves and plane waves were considered and used to convert the corresponding wave potentials into forms in terms of the Cartesian or cylindrical coordinate *** induced ground-borne vibration was obtained analytically by applying a spatially periodic harmonic moving load to the tunnel *** accuracy and efficiency of the proposed model were verified by comparing the results under a moving constant and harmonic load with those from previous ***,the response characteristics under a spatially periodic harmonic moving load were identified,and the effects of a wide range of factors on the responses were systematically *** numerical results showed that moving and Doppler effects can be caused by a spatially periodic harmonic moving *** critical frequency and frequency bandwidth of the response are affected by the load type,frequency,velocity,and wavenumber in one periodicity *** the tunnel depth is an efficient way to reduce ground-borne *** effect of vibration amplification on the free surface should be considered to avoid excessive vibration levels that disturb residents.

关键词： Coupled tunnel-soil model Spatially periodic load Transfer matrix method wave transformation Parametric analysis

transformation and Breaking of Irregular waves on Very Gentle Slopes

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China Ocean Engineering 2000年第3期15卷 261-278页

作者：李玉成崔丽芳于洋董国海高家俊庄士贤 State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology Dalian 116024 China Master Student Dalian University of Technology Dalian 116024 China Dalian University of Technology Dalian 116024 China Coastal Ocean Monitoring Center Cheng Kung University Tainan 70101 Taiwan

Based on theoretical analysis, numerical calculation, and experimental study. this paper discusses breaker indices of irregular waves, transformation of wave spectrum, characteristics and computation of breaking waves, as well as the critical beach slope under which waves will not break. Computed results are in good agreement with laboratory physical model test data and ocean wave field measurements.

关键词： wave spectrum beach slope wave transformation wave breaking breaker indices

Comparison between characteristics of mild slope equations and Boussinesq equations

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Acta Oceanologica Sinica 2005年第4期24卷 131-137页

作者： LI Ruijie ZHANG Suxiang ZHANG Yang Research Institute of Physical Oceanography Hohai University Nanjing 210098 China Department of Civil and Coastal Engineering University of Florida FL 32611-6590 USA

Boussinesq-type equations and mild-slope equations are compared in terms of their basic forms and characteristics. It is concluded that linear mild-slope equations on dispersion relation are better than non-linear Boussinesq equations. In addition, Berkhoffexperiments are computed and compared by the two models, and agreement between model results and available experimental data is found to be quite reasonable, which demonstrates the two models＇ capacity to simulate wave transformation. However they can deal with different physical processes respectively, and they have their own characteristics.

关键词： Boussinesq equations mild-slope equations wave transformation dispersion relation nonlinearity

Investigation of adequate closed form travelling wave solution to the space-time fractional non-linear evolution equations

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Journal of Ocean Engineering and Science 2022年第3期7卷 292-303页

作者： Mohammad Asif Arefin M.Ayesha Khatun M.Hafiz Uddin Mustafa Inc Department of Mathematics Jashore University of Science and TechnologyJashore 7408Bangladesh Department of Computer Engineering Biruni UniversityIstanbulTurkey Department of Mathematics Science FacultyFirat UniversityElazigTurkey Department of Medical Research China Medical University HospitalChina Medical UniversityTaichungTaiwan

This work aims to construct exact solutions for the space-time fractional(2+1)-dimensional dispersive longwave(DLW)equation and approximate long water wave equation(ALW)utilizing the twovariable(G′/G,1/G)-expansion method and the modified Riemann-Liouville fractional *** recommended equations play a significant role to describe the travel of the shallow water *** fractional complex transform is used to convert fractional differential equations into ordinary differential *** wave solutions have been successfully achieved using the proposed approach and the symbolic computer Maple *** Maple package program was used to set up and validate all of the computations in this *** choosing particular values of the embedded parameters,we pro-duce multiple periodic solutions,periodic wave solutions,single soliton solutions,kink wave solutions,and more forms of soliton *** achieved solutions might be useful to comprehend nonlinear *** is worth noting that the implemented method for solving nonlinear fractional partial dif-ferential equations(NLFPDEs)is efficient,and simple to find further and new-fangled solutions in the arena of mathematical physics and coastal engineering.

关键词： Riemann-Liouville fractional derivative Space-time fractional(2+1)-dimensional dispersive long wave equation Approximate long water wave equation wave transformation The two-variable(G′/G,1/G)-expansion method