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Numerical Simulation of wave Height and wave set-up in Nearshore Regions

China Ocean Engineering 2001年第1期16卷 15-23页

作者：郑永红邱大洪沈永明 Guangzhou Institute of Energy Conversion Chinese Academy of Sciences State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of Technology (OUT) Academician of Chinese Academy of Sciences State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering OUT

Based on the time dependent mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation, an expression for the energy dissipation factor is derived in conjunction with the wave energy balance equation, and then a practical method for the simulation of wave height and wave set- up in nearshore regions is presented. The variation of the complex wave amplitude is numerically simulated by use of the parabolic mild slope equation including the effect of wave energy dissipation due to wave breaking. The components of wave radiation stress are calculated subsequently by new expressions for them according to the obtained complex wave amplitude, and then the depth-averaged equation is applied to the calculation of wave set-up due to wave breaking. Numerical results are in good agreement with experimental data, showing that the expression for the energy dissipation factor is reasonable and that the new method is effective for the simulation of wave set-up due to wave breaking in nearshore regions.

关键词： wave energy dissipation wave set-up wave height associated with breaking mathematical model numerical simulation

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Effects of tide-surge interaction and wave set-up/set-down on surge: case studies of tropical cyclones landing China's Zhe-Min coast

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Theoretical & Applied Mechanics Letters 2018年第3期8卷 153-159页

作者： Qingyong Wuxi Jiachun Li Bingchuan Nie Key Laboratory for Mechanics in Fluid Solid Coupling Systems Institute of Mechanics Chinese Academy of Sciences School of Engineering Science University of Chinese Academy of Sciences School of Civil Engineering Beijing Jiaotong University

Storm surge along the China＇s Zhe-Min coast is addressed using the tightly coupled surge model ofADCIRC＋SWAN. In this study, we primarily focus on the effects of surge-tide interaction and waveset-up/set-down. And the influences of intensity and landing moment of tropical cyclone （TC） arealso presented. The results show that： water elevation without considering tide-surge interactiontends to be underestimated/overestimated when TC lands during astronomical low/high tide;tide-surge coupling effect is more pronounced north of TC track （more than 0.7 m in our cases）;irrelevant to TC＇s intensity, wave set-up south of TC track is negligible because the depth-relatedwave breaking doesn＇t occur in water body blown towards open seas.

关键词： Tide-surge interaction wave set-up Storm surge ADCIRC+SWAN Saomai

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wave Height Transformation and set-up Between A Submerged Permeable Breakwater and A Seawall

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China Ocean Engineering 2012年第1期26卷 167-176页

作者：蔡清标余建弘陈鸿彬陈信佑 Department of Civil Engineering National Chung Hsing University Department of Sports Health and Leisure Chihlee Institute of Technology

In this study, we investigated wave transformation and wave set-up between a submerged permeable breakwater and a seawall. Modified time-dependent mild-slope equations, which involve parameters of the porous medium, were used to calculate the wave height transformation and the mean water level change around a submerged breakwater. The numerical solution is verified with experimental data. The simulated results show that modulations of the wave profile and wave set-up are clearly observed between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. In contrast to cases without a seawall, the node or pseudo-node of wave height evolution can be found between the submerged breakwater and the seawall. Higher wave set-up occurs if the nodal or pseudo-nodal point appears near the submerged breakwater. We also examined the influence of the porosity and friction factor of the submerged permeable breakwater on wave transformation and set-up.

关键词： wave height transformation water piling-up wave set-up submerged permeable breakwater', seawall time-dependent mild-slope equations

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Experimental and numerical investigations on wave motions over platform reef-flat

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Journal of Hydrodynamics 2022年第2期34卷 244-258页

作者： Hong-jun Zhao Liu-jun Zong Cheng-ji Shen Jun Kong Yu-liang Zhu Jun-da Wang College of Harbor Coastal and Offshore EngineeringHohai UniversityNanjing210024China Hohai University Key Laboratory of Coastal Disasters and Defence Ministry of EducationNanjing210024China

Previous studies have shown that high-frequency(HF)waves,low-frequency(LF)waves and wave set-up coexist on shallow coral reef-flat and jointly contribute to potential floods and subsequent damages of infrastructures and islands on *** better understand the reef-flat wave dynamics with incident waves and still water level,a wave-flume experiment was performed based on an idealized platform reef composed of a steep reef-face(1:4),a relatively mild reef-rim(1:14)and a horizontal ***,the non-hydrostatic phase-resolving model SWASH was validated against the experiment and then applied to further numerically investigate the effects of reef-rim topographic features on the reef-flat wave *** results show that incident waves of a larger wave height and a longer wave period can generate larger LF waves and wave set-up,thereby inducing greater HF waves on the *** still water level can lead to larger HF waves but result in smaller wave *** contrast to HF waves and wave set-up,LF waves are minimally affected by the still water level.A rim of milder slope and larger edge depth will induce smaller HF and LF waves and set-up on the reef-flat,and thus provide better protection for the reef-flat ***,on the reef-flat,the ratio of HF significant wave height to water depth H_(s_h)/(h_(r)+η^(-))is approximately constant;the dimensionless LF significant wave height Hs_l/H_(s0) and the dimensionless wave set-upη^(-)/[T_(p)(gH_(s0))1/2]can be related to the inverse wave steepness parameter gT_(p)^(2)/H_(s0) and the relative reef-flat submergence(h_(r)+η^(-))/H_(s0) respectively.

关键词： High-frequency waves low-frequency waves wave set-up platform reef reef-rim topographic features

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Experimental investigation of regular wave propagation over an idealized reef model

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Journal of Hydrodynamics 2020年第4期32卷 717-726页

作者： Gan-cheng Zhu Bing Ren Hong-jie Wen Guo-yu Wang Yong-xue Wang State Key Laboratory of Coastal and Offshore Engineering Dalian University of TechnologyDalian 116024China

The wave transformation over the deep-sea coral reefs is an essential issue in the analysis of the reef ecosystem and the design of large reef-top *** wave flume experiments are conducted to investigate the wave transformation processes over an idealized reef *** measurements of the wave height,the wave set-up and the wave-generated flow on the reef-top are made with and without the reef-top structure at various submerged depths and under different wave *** is found that the reef-top structure has a significant influence on the wave breaking,the wave set-up and the wave-generated *** wave set-up increases with the increasing wave height and the decreasing submergence ***,the relationship between the wave set-up and the wave period is complex,influenced by the reef-top structure.

关键词： Coral reef wave set-up reef-top structure wave breaking wave-generated flow

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