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Relationship between wave steepness and wave age in the course of wind wave growth

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Chinese Journal of Oceanology and Limnology 2004年第4期22卷 340-343页

作者：吴淑萍侯一筠尹宝树宋金宝赵喜喜 Institute of Oceanology Chinese Academy of Sciences Qingdao 266071 China Graduate School of the Chinese Academy of Sciences Beijing 100039 China Institute of Oceanology Chinese Academy of Sciences

It is traditionally assumed that the relationship between wave steepness and wave age is inde- pendent of the wind wave growth state. In fact, the traditional relationship can not describe the whole course of wind wave growth. This paper assumes that the relationship between wave steepness and wave age changes with the variety of dimensionless fetch. Based on the relationship proposed by Hou and Wen (1990), a new relation- ship in the course of wind wave growth is revealed. Comparisons between the present study and other previous relationships show that this new relationship explains better the observations than the other existing relationships. In the case of small fetch, wave age value increases more quickly than other models while it is in opposition to that in the case of large fetch. The result in present paper can clearly reflect the whole course of wind wave growth, it is an improvement for traditional *** words: wave steepness, wave age, relationship between wave steepness and wave age

关键词： wave steepness wave age relationship between wave steepness and wave age

The Influence of Sea Sprays on Drag Coefficient at High Wind Speed

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Journal of Ocean University of China 2023年第1期22卷 21-27页

作者： SHI Hongyuan LI Qingjie WANG Zhaowei ZHANG Xuri LI Huaqing XING Hao ZHANG Kuncheng Centre for Ports and Coastal Disaster Mitigation Ludong UniversityYantai 264025China The Center for Ports and Maritime Safety(CPMS) Dalian Maritime UniversityDalian 1160263China Marine Environmental Monitoring Central Station State Oceanic AdministrationYantai 264025China Guangxi Key Laboratory of Marine Environmental Science Guangxi Academy of SciencesNanning 530025China

Field and laboratory observations indicate that the variation of drag coefficient with wind speed at high winds is different from that under low-to-moderate *** taking the effects of wave development and sea spray into account,a new parameterization of drag coefficient applicable from low to extreme winds is *** is shown that,under low-to-moderate wind conditions so that the sea spray effects could be neglected,the nondimensional aerodynamic roughness first increases and then decreases with the increasing wave age;whereas under high wind conditions,the drag coefficient decreases with the increasing wind speed due to the modification of the logarithmic wind profile by the effect of sea spray droplets produced by bursting bubbles or wind tearing breaking wave *** drag coefficients and sea surface aerodynamic roughnesses reach their maximum values vary under different wave ***,the reduction of drag coefficient under high winds reduces the increasing rate of friction velocity with increasing wind speed.

关键词： sea spray wave age drag coefficient high wind speed

A new parameterization scheme for sea surface aerodynamic roughness

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Progress in Natural Science:Materials International 2008年第11期18卷 1365-1373页

作者： Yuping Pan~(a,b) Wenyu Sha~c Shouxian Zhu~c Sufang Ge~(a,*) a Nanjing University of Information Science and Technology,Nanjing 210044,China b Air Force Meteorological Center of the Nanjing Military Region,Nanjing 210018,China c Meteorology College,The PLA University of Information Science and Technology,Nanjing 211101,China Nanjing University of Information Science and Technology Nanjing 210044 China Air Force Meteorological Center of the Nanjing Military Region Nanjing 210018 China Meteorology College The PLA University of Information Science and Technology Nanjing 211101 China

The dimensionless roughness length derived from dimensional analysis bears a relation to wave age,and the dimensionless form of roughness length can be expressed with the relation with a significant wave *** on six experiments(HEXMAX,RASEX,BIO steady platform,Lake Ontario data analysis FETCH,CBLAST low wind),we verified that the Charnock parameter,Zch,and dimension- less roughness length,z0/Hs,are dependent on wave age,u*/***,we constructed a new scheme for roughness length,and explored its sensitivity to friction velocity and wave *** the newly developed parameterization scheme(PS07)with COARE (Coupled Ocean-Atmosphere Response Experiment V.3.0)algorithm,we calculated the data from the North Sea Platform experiment in December,1985,and made an attempt to validate the suitability of the PS07 compared to the other three schemes of *** found that the calculated results based on the PS07 are close to the *** also conducted an experiment in which the PS07 was combined with the nested model of waves coupling in datasets of 3 typhoons that occurred at the Zhanjiang *** comparison results between the calculated and observed waves around the Naozhou Island indicate that the new parameterization scheme(PS07)has a good applicability.

关键词： Sea surface roughness Parameterization scheme Significant wave height wave age COARE algorithm

Rainfall effect on wind waves and the turbulence beneath air-sea interface

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Acta Oceanologica Sinica 2013年第11期32卷 10-20页

作者： ZHAO Dongliang MA Xin LIU Bin XIE Lian Physical Oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of China Department of Marine Earth and Atmospheric SciencesNorth Carolina State University

Rainfall effects on wind waves and turbulence are investigated through the laboratory experiments in a large wind-wave tank. It is found that the wind waves are damped as a whole at low wind speeds, but are enhanced at high wind speeds. This dual effect of rain on the wind waves increases with the increase of rain rate, while the influence of rainfall-area length is not observable. At the low wind speed, the corresponding turbulence in terms of the turbulent kinetic energy （TKE） dissipation rate is significantly enhanced by rain- fall as the waves are damped severely. At the high wind speed, the augment of the TKE dissipation rate is suppressed while the wind waves are enhanced simultaneously. In the field, however, rainfall usually hin- ders the development of waves. In order to explain this contradiction of rainfall effect on waves, a possibility about energy transfer from turbulence to waves in case of the spectral peak of waves overlapping the inertial subrange of turbulence is assumed. It can be applied to interpret the damping phenomenon of gas trans- fer velocity in the laboratory experiments, and the variation of the TKE dissipation rates near sea surface compared with the law of wall.

关键词： rainfall wind wave wave age turbulence turbulent kinetic energy

Parameterization of wave Breaking Probability and Whitecap Coverage

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China Ocean Engineering 2006年第3期20卷 411-418页

作者：李晶于定勇刘华兴 College of Engineering Ocean University of China Qingdao 266071 China

The model for whitecap coverage and wave breaking probability are parameterized by the dimensionless wind fetch X^-. This paper aims at replacing X^- with other parameters such as the average wave period T^-, wind speed U10 or wave age ξ in order to improve the suitability and convenience of the model for application. First, W and B are expressed in terms of T^- and U10, which are relatively easy to measure in the field. Further, U10 is replaced with the friction velocity U. by use of the empirical relationship. As wave age has been widely used to parameterize spectral models of ocean waves and air-sea fluxes, W and B are then expressed as a simple function of wave age, respectively. The new forms of the model obtained are W= 1 - Ф（3.02ξ0＂76） and B = exp（ - 4.54ξ^1.52） . The two forms are mere applicable in pracrice, since ξ is relatively easy to measure or determine from wave and wind records. Comparisons between these expressions and data collected from published literature are made and agreement is fairly good.

关键词： whitecap coverage wave breaking probability friction velocity wave age

The comparison of altimeter retrieval algorithms of the wind speed and the wave period

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Acta Oceanologica Sinica 2012年第3期31卷 1-9页

作者： ZHAO Dongliang LI Shuiqing SONG Chaoyang Physical Oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of ChinaQingdao 266100China

With the launch of altimeter,much effort has been made to develop algorithms on the wind speed and the wave *** using a large data set of collocated altimeter and buoy measurements,the typical wind speed and wave period algorithms are *** on theoretical argument and the concept of wave age,a semi-empirical algorithm for the wave period is also proposed,which has the wave-period dimension,and explicitly demonstrates the relationships between the wave period and the other *** is found that Ku and C band data should be applied simultaneously in order to improve either wind speed or wave period *** dual-band algorithms proposed by Chen et al.(2002) for the wind speed and Quilfen et al.(2004) for the wave period perform best in terms of a root mean square error in the practical applications.

关键词： altimeter wind speed wave period wave age significant wave height

New Interpretation of Dependence of Wind Stress on wave State

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China Ocean Engineering 2003年第4期18卷 577-588页

作者： ZHAO Dong-liang(赵栋梁) LOU An-gang(娄安刚) Institute of Physical Oceanography Ocean University of China Qingdao 266003 China College of Environmental Science and Engineering Ocean University of China Qingdao266003 China

Based on observations from buoys, it is found that the wave age is well correlated with the nondimensional wave height, and this correlation is best described by a 3/5-power law. This similarity law is valid in the cases of wind waves as well as swells under natural sea states. On the basis of the 3/5-power law combined with the well-known 3/2-power law I it is shown that the wave-induced wind stress increases rapidly with wave age, indicating that the traditional observations or analytic techniques have only given the turbulent Reynolds stress induced by short wind waves, but excluded the long-wave-induced wind stress. The latter constitutes a small fraction to the total wind stress when the wave age is smaller than 1.0. The increase of sea-surface roughness with wave age can be attributed to wave breaking.

关键词： wind stress drag coefficient wave age wind waves

Analysis of the Global Swell Distributions Using ECMWF Re-Analyses Wind wave Data

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Journal of Ocean University of China 2011年第4期10卷 325-330页

作者： ZHANG Jie WANG Weili GUAN Changlong Physical Oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of ChinaQingdao 266100P.R.China

The existence of three well-defined tongue-shaped zones of swell dominance,termed as 'swell pools',in the Pacific,the Atlantic and the Indian Oceans,was reported by Chen et al.(2002)using satellite *** this paper,the ECMWF Re-analyses wind wave data,including wind speed,significant wave height,averaged wave period and direction,are applied to verify the existence of these swell *** swell indices calculated from wave height,wave age and correlation coefficient are used to identify swell *** wave age swell index can be more appropriately related to physical processes compared to the other two swell *** on the ECMWF data the swell pools in the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans are confirmed,but the expected swell pool in the Indian Ocean is not *** seasonal variations of global and hemispherical swell indices are investigated,and the argument that swells in the pools seemed to originate mostly from the winter hemisphere is supported by the seasonal variation of the averaged wave *** northward bending of the swell pools in the Pacific and the Atlantic Oceans in summer is not revealed by the ECMWF *** swell pool in the Indian Ocean and the summer northward bending of the swell pools in the Pacific and the Atlan-tic Oceans need to be further verified by other datasets.

关键词： global swell distribution swell index wave age ECMWF Re-analyses data

Analysis of wave Directional Spreading by Bayesian Parameter Estimation

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China Ocean Engineering 2002年第1期17卷 89-105页

作者：钱桦莊士贤高家俊 Institute of Hydraulic and Ocean Engineering Cheng Kung University Coastal Ocean Montioring Center Cheng Kung University

A spatial array of wave gauges installed on an observatoion platform has been designed and arranged to measure the local features of winter monsoon directional waves off Taishi coast of Taiwan. A new method, named the Bayesian Parameter Estimation Method(BPEM), is developed and adopted to determine the main direction and the directional spreading parameter of directional spectra. ne BPEM could be considered as a regression analysis to find the maximum joint probability of parameters, which best approximates the observed data from the Bayesian viewpoint. The result of the analysis of field wave data demonstrates the highly dependency of the characteristics of normalized directional spreading on the wave age. The Mitsuyasu type empirical formula of directional spectrum is therefore modified to be representative of monsoon wave field. Moreover, it is suggested that S-max could be expressed as a function of wave steepness. The values of S-max decrease with increasing steepness. Finally, a local directional spreading model, which is simple to be utilized in engineering practice, is proposed.

关键词： directional wave spectrum Bayesian theorem wave age