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Computation of Diffraction of Irregular Waves Behind Single Jetty

China Ocean Engineering 1991年第3期6卷 321-334页

作者： Yao, Guoquan Ma, Zhixiong Ding, Bingeau Nanjing Hydraulic Research Inst Nanjing China

This paper presents a calculation method for the diffraction of both regular waves and irregular waves of the single directional frequency spectrum behind a single jetty with a theoretical analysis, which has been confirmed through the model experiments, derives a method of computing the diffracted irregular waves behind the single jetty with the theoretical analysis on the basis of computation of the field data and gives the formulas and the figures of the computation of wave diffractions behind the vertical wall or mound single jetties.

关键词： jetties Mathematical Models

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Coastal Erosion in Yasawa Islands,Fiji

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Natural Science 2017年第5期9卷 136-142页

作者： Nils-Axel Morner Pamela Matlack Klein Paleogeophysics&Geodynamics StockholmSweden The Portuguese Sea Level Project AppomattoxVirginiaUSA

Coastal erosion may have many different causes. Wherever we came across erosion problems on the Yasawa Islands in Fiji, they had causes other than sea level rise. We present two case studies. At one site, the beach erosion was caused by the construction of a stonewall diverting the currents in a gyre that hit the shore causing local beach erosion. At another site, extensive erosion caused removal and lateral re-deposition of huge quantities of sand. From the Google Earth images we can infer a date between 2005 and 2009 for this change in shore conditions. We suggest that the shallow-water sand was destabilized by the commercial harvesting of thousands of sea cucumbers (Holothuria scabra). These animals, by their sheer numbers and ecological behavior, were exerting a stabilizing influence on the shallow-water sandy deposits off the beach at Yageta Village. In both cases, the erosion was caused by human action. The coasts all along the Yasawa Islands are characterized by coastal stability. The presence of extensive rock-cut platforms and notches, as well as the occurrence of corals grown into “mini-atolls” are indicative of a stable sea level throughout the islands.

关键词： Coastal Erosion Currents jetties Sea Cucumbers Stable Sea Level Fiji

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