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Origin of Qipao Fashion in early republic period

Journal of Donghua University(English Edition) 2003年第4期20卷 21-26页

作者：卞向阳 College of Fashion Donghua University Shanghai 200051he goal of this research is to analyze and discuss the origin of Qipao as women's fashionable wear in the early Republic Period (1911-1949). The origin of Qipao fashion will be discussed in three aspects 1) discussion of the original time place and consumer group of Qipao fashion 2) analysis of initial style and wear combination of Qipao 3) deduction of the origin of the name Qipao. Besides the analysis will also be given about Qipao's aesthetic characters its production consumption guarantee as well as its social backgrounds. The research will be made on the basis of the principles and methods of history social psychology of clothing and design and will use many materials especially historical writings and publications to give a more detailed discussion.Here are some tentative conclusions. Firstly Qipao as a kind of one-piece dress was not inherited directly from the robe of Banner Style. It was a new fashion in the 1920s which combined the elements of long vest called Qipao Majia Wenming Xin Zhuang and the Western dress. Secondly the Shanghai female students were the pioneering group wearing Qipao in 1925. Thirdly the gradual acceptance of Qipao was mainly due to its aesthetic characters production consumption as well as social backgrounds at that time. And it was the kind of daily wear of many Chinese women after 1927. Fourthly since Qipao represents the special clothing which integrated Chinese traditional style and the Western fashion in the early Republic Period Qipao is advised to be taken as a special term to take the place of the previous ones like Mandarin Dress Ch'ipau and Cheongsam and so on.

The goal of this research is to analyze and discuss the origin of Qipao as women's fashionable wear in the early republic period (1911-1949).The origin of Qipao fashion will be discussed in three aspects:1) discussion of the original time,place and consumer group of Qipao fashion;2) analysis of initial style and wear combination of Qipao,3) deduction of the origin of the name ***,the analysis will also be given about Qipao's aesthetic characters,its production,consumption guarantee as well as its social *** research will be made on the basis of the principles and methods of history,social psychology of clothing and design,and will use many materials especially historical writings and publications to give a more detailed discussion.Here are some tentative conclusions. Firstly, Qipao as a kind of one-piece dress was not inherited directly from the robe of Banner Style. It was a new fashion in the 1920s, which combined the elements of long vest called Qipao Majia, Wenming Xin Zhuang and the Western dress. Secondly, the Shanghai female students were the pioneering group wearing Qipao in 1925. Thirdly, the gradual acceptance of Qipao was mainly due to its aesthetic characters, production, consumption as well as social backgrounds at that time. And it was the kind of daily wear of many Chinese women after 1927. Fourthly, since Qipao represents the special clothing which integrated Chinese traditional style and the Western fashion in the early republic period, Qipao is advised to be taken as a special term to take the place of the previous ones like Mandarin Dress, Chipau and Cheongsam and so on.

关键词： fashion Qipao dress mode Banner Style history of costume early republic period

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