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An interpretation of wave refraction and its influence on foreshore sediment distribution

Acta Oceanologica Sinica 2019年第5期38卷 151-160页

作者： Vincent Jayaraj Joevivek Nainarpandian Chandrasekar ramakrishnan jayangondaperumal Vikram Chandra Thakur Krishnan Shree Purniema Akshaya College of Engineering and Technology Centre for GeoTechnology Manonmaniam Sundaranar University Francis Xavier Engineering College Structure and Tectonics Group Wadia Institute of Himalayan Geology

To analyze the grain size and depositional environment of the foreshore sediments, a study was undertaken on wave refraction along the wide sandy beaches of central Tamil Nadu coast. The nearshore waves approach the coast at 45° during the northeast(NE) monsoon, at 135° during the southwest(SW) monsoon and at 90° during the non-monsoon or fair-weather period with a predominant wave period of 8 and 10 s. A computer based wave refraction pattern is constructed to evaluate the trajectories of shoreward propagating waves along the coast in different seasons. The convergent wave rays during NE monsoon, leads to high energy wave condition which conveys a continuous erosion at foreshore region while divergent and inept condition of rays during the SW and non-monsoon, leads to moderate and less energy waves that clearly demarcates the rebuilt beach sediments through littoral sediment transport. The role of wave refraction in foreshore deposits was understood by grain size and depositional environment analysis. The presence of fine grains with the mixed population, during the NE monsoon reveals that the high energy wave condition and sediments were derived from beach and river environment. Conversely, the presence of medium grains with uniform population, during SW and non-monsoon attested less turbulence and sediments were derived from prolong propagation of onshore-offshore wave *** upshots are apparently correlated with the in situ beach condition. On the whole, from this study it is understood that beaches underwent erosion during the NE monsoon and restored its original condition during the SW and non-monsoon seasons that exposed the stability of the beach and nearshore condition.

关键词： foreshore grain size wave refraction sediment transport beach India

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