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Analytical Algorithms for the Blend Ratios by Fibre-bundle Tensile Curves Part Ⅲ: The Definition Method and the Relationships between the Blend Ratio and Tensile Parameters Calculated from Different Ways

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Journal of Donghua University(English Edition) 2004年第4期21卷 1-7页

作者：于伟东 ron postle 严灏景 College of Textiles Donghua University 1882 West Yan-an Rd. Shanghai 200051 Chinaprofessor Department of Textile Technology University of New South Wales Sydney 2052 Australia College of Textiles Donghua University 1882 West Yan-an Rd. Shanghai 200051 China

The algorithms of the strength, work, modulus and percentage methods have been introduced and discussed in Part Ⅰ and Part Ⅱ of the series papers. As the following, the percentage-function calculation and the frequency-function calculation of the definition method are defined and developed in detail. Meanwhile, the procedures to find the tensile parameters are analysed experimentally and involve “ED” being the average values of the corresponding tensile parameters of each bundle tensile curve measured; “EC” being the tensile parameters obtained from the averaged experimental tensile curve; and “TC” being the parameters of the theoretical tensile curve according to the corresponding nominal blend ratio. The theoretical and experimental results indicate that the blend ratio estimated by the definition method from wool/polyester blended fibre bundles has a high correlation with the actual blend ratio though the variables to be known in this method are the most of all the methods and there exist the difficulty to solve fibre bundle tensile behaviour without fibre broken in accuracy and that there are high correlations between the EC and TC data and the tensile parameters should be calculated using the EC method rather than the ED method with the exception of the bundle initial modulus. The relationships between blend ratios and the tensile properties of blended fibre bundles can be used to select the optimum blend ratio of blended tops or yarns.

关键词： fibre bundle blend ratio tensile curve wool polyester fibre

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Prickle of Light-Weight Worsted Woven Wool Fabrics

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Journal of Donghua University(English Edition) 2004年第2期21卷 47-51页

作者：王革辉 ron postle 张渭源 Fashion Institute Donghua University Shanghai 200051 The University of New South Wales Sydney NSW 2052 Australia

Using the forearm test, the prickle of 26 commercially available light-weight worsted woven wool fabrics and 7 other fiber fabrics were studied under (24±1)℃ temperature and (65±5)% RH conditions. The surface fiber diameter of part of the wool fabrics was measured using a microscope. It was found that most of the light-weight worsted woven wool fabrics gave a prickle sensation under the above conditions. The prickle sensation was significantly correlated with the mean fiber diameter of the surface hairiness. It was also found that the prickle of the light-weight worsted woven wool fabrics was significantly correlated with the number of surface fibers which were coarser than 26 μm diameter.

关键词： light-weight wool woven fabric comfort prickle hairiness fiber diameter

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Comfort of Light-weight Wool and Wool Blend Woven Fabrics

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Journal of Donghua University(English Edition) 2002年第4期19卷 33-35页

作者：王革辉张渭源 postle ron Fashion Institute Dong Hua UniversityShanghai 200051P.R.China School of Materials Science and Technology The University of New South WalesSydneyNSW2052Australia

The comfort of the light-weight woven fabrics was investigated by conducting the wear trials under the controlled climatic conditions. The wear trial under the neutral environmental conditions showed that the lightweight wool and wool blend fabrics are generally less comfortable than the silk fabric, cotton poplin and polyester/cotton poplin fabrics tested in this study. The main shortcoming in terms of comfort for these lightweight wool fabrics is the prickle. Besides, the fabric softness was found to be a very important factor influencing the comfort of the clothing worn next to the skin.

关键词： comfort, wool, wear trial, prickle, softness

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Effect of Rating Scales and Test Parts of Body on the Evaluation Results of Fabric-evoked Prickle

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Journal of Donghua University(English Edition) 2006年第3期23卷 102-105页

作者：王革辉 ron postle 张渭源 College of Fashion Donghua University Shanghai 200051 School of Materials Science and Technology University of New South Wales Sydney NSW 2052 Australia

The effect of rating scales and test parts of body on the fabric-evoked prickle evaluation results are studied by carrying out subjective evaluation tests under controlled environment conditions （24 4±1）℃, （65 =l= 5） %RH. Ten college female students aged about 20 were chosen as the subjects, who have participated a preliminary training on subjective prickle evaluation. The prickle of a range of 9 light-weight worsted woven wool and wool blend fabrics and a cotton fabric were tested by using a 1 - 5 rating scale and using a 0 - 10 rating scale respectively at different test parts of body respectively such as forearm, upper arm ball and neck back. The test results were statistically analyzed. It is found that there is a significant correlation coefficient between the evaluation results of using the 1 - 5 rating scale and of using the 0- 10 rating scale. It is also found that there are highly significant correlation coefficients between the evaluation results of using the forearm prickle test and the neck back prickle test, between the evaluation results of using the neck back prickle test and the upper arm ball prickle test, and between the evaluation results of using the forearm prickle test and the upper arm ball prickle test. It is suggested that the forearm prickle test is preferable in evaluating fabric-evoked prickle for its convenience and sensitivity.

关键词： subjective evaluation fabric-evoked prickle rating scale forearm test.

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Comparison of Low Stress Mechanical Properties of Light Weight Wool and Wool Blend Fabrics using the KES-F and FAST Instruments

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Journal of China Textile University(English Edition) 2000年第4期17卷 99-102页

作者：王革辉张渭源 postle ron Phillips David Fashion Inst. China Textile Univ. Shanghai 200051 China

This study compares the test results of the FAST (Fabric Assurance by Simple Testing) with those of the KES - F (Kawabata Evaluation Systems for Fabrics) for a range of nineteen light weight wool and wool blend fabrics in terms of the low - stress mechanical properties of bending, shear, and tensile deformation. It is found that there are very significant correlations between the corresponding parameters for extensibility and shear rigidity obtained from the test results of the two systems. The correlation between the values of bending rigidity obtained from the two systems is only moderate. Furthermore, for the fabrics tested in this study, the values of bending rigidity, shear rigidity, and extensibility measured using the KES - F instruments are higher than those of the corresponding parameters measured using the FAST instruments. The linear regression equation is given for each pair of corresponding parameter.

关键词： low stress mechanical properties the KES - F system the FAST system light weight wool fabrics

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Low Stress Mechanical Properties of Wool and Wool Blend Woven Fabrics

Low Stress Mechanical Properties of Wool and Wool Blend Wove...

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第三届中国国际毛纺织会议

作者： ron postle University of New South Wales SydneyNSW 2052Australia Consulting ProfessorDonghua UniversityShanghai 200051China

＜正＞The comprehensive qualities of wool and wool blend fabrics in relation to the handle,tailorability and performance are becoming more critical for manufacturers standing on today’s market *** characteristics can be specified and controlled accurately by the low stress mechanical,surface and dimensional properties during textile and clothing manufacturing processes. The low stress mechanical and surface properties of some commercial worsted fabrics produced in China are investigated in this paper using the FAST and KESF sets of *** relationships between the low stress mechanical properties and the mass per unit as well as the material component are *** surface property is also analysed for some particular fabrics which have special property design *** performance and the tailorability of the thin light-weight fabrics are further investigated for apparel applications.

关键词： quality tailorability wool and wool blend woven fabrics low stress mechanical properties fabric surface properties formability

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Effect of Testing Conditions on Fibre-Bundle Tensile Properties-Part Ⅱ: the Gauge Length and Elongation Speed in Wool Fibre Bundle Measurement

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Journal of Donghua University(English Edition) 2002年第3期19卷 7-12页

作者：于伟东 ron postle 杨守仁严灏景 College of Textiles Dong Hua University Shanghai 200051 Department of Textile Technology University of New South Wales Sydney 2052 Australia Textile and Fibre Technology CSIRO Belmont PO Box 21 Victoria 3216 Australia

The testing conditions of a fibre bundle tensile tester (TENSOR) are elongation speed (ES), gauge length (GL), pretension, jaw pressure, environmental temperature and relative humidity, instrument linearity and sensitivity. The effects on fibre-bundle tensile properties at different GL and ES have been discussed in detail and compared with Peirce’s theories on the weaklinks and the breaking time effect. The experimental results indicate that the tensile properties of fibre bundles are strongly affected by GL and vary with different GL. The reasonable GL should be 5 15 mm rather than 3.2 mm for wool bundle measurements. The ES ranging from 20 mm/min to 40 mm/min is beneficial for obtaining comparatively stable and accurate tensile values, whereas 20 mm/min used in current testing for wool fibre bundles is at the lower limit of the suggested range. For bundle modulus measurement, the sampling interval must be selected appropriately. The new calculation of the sampling interval has been established.

关键词： fibre bundle, wool, tensile property, gauge length, elongation speed, modulus, TENSOR.

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Effect of Testing Conditions on Fibre-Bundle Tensile Properties Part Ⅰ: Sample Preparation, Bundle Mass and Fibre Alignment of Wool Bundles

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Journal of Donghua University(English Edition) 2002年第2期19卷 74-80页

作者：于伟东严灏景 ron postle Yang Shouren College of Textiles Dong Hua University Shanghai 200051 Department of Textile Technology University of New South Wales Sydney 2052 Australia Textile and Fibre Technology CSIRO Belmont PO Box 21 Victoria 3216 Australia

Due to the effects of samples and testing conditions on fibre-bundle tensile behaviour, it is necessary to investigate the relationships between experimental factors and tensile properties for the fibre-bundle tensile tester (TENSOR). The effects of bundle sample preparation, fibre bundle mass and fibre alignment have been tested. The experimental results indicated that (1) the low damage in combing and no free-end fibres in the cut bundle are most important for the sample preparation; (2) the reasonable bundle mass is 400700 tex, but the tensile properties measured should be modified with the bundle mass because a small amount of bundle mass causes the scatter results, while the larger is the bundle mass, the more difficult to comb fibres parallel and to clamp fibre evenly; and (3) the fibre irregular arrangement forms a slack bundle resulting in interaction between fibres, which will affect the reproducibility and accuracy of the tensile testing.

关键词： fibre bundle, wool, tensile property, modulus,TENSOR

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表面纤维直径与羊毛机织精纺面料的刺痒感

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东华大学学报（自然科学版） 2004年第1期30卷 107-111页

作者：王革辉张渭源王花娥 ron postle 东华大学服装学院上海200051 澳大利亚新南威尔士大学材料科学与工程学院

通过前臂试验对26种轻薄型羊毛机织精纺面料和7种其他纤维的轻薄型机织面料的刺痒感进行了比较研究,并用显微镜对部分轻薄型羊毛机织面料的表面纤维分布进行了研究。结果表明多数毛织物在温度为(24±1)℃、相对湿度为(65±5)％的条件下... 详细信息

通过前臂试验对26种轻薄型羊毛机织精纺面料和7种其他纤维的轻薄型机织面料的刺痒感进行了比较研究,并用显微镜对部分轻薄型羊毛机织面料的表面纤维分布进行了研究。结果表明多数毛织物在温度为(24±1)℃、相对湿度为(65±5)％的条件下存在刺痒感,并且毛织物的刺痒感与其表面纤维的平面直径及直径大于26μm的表面纤维根数密切相关。

关键词：羊毛机织精纺面料舒适性刺痒感表面纤维直径

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纯毛及毛混纺机织物的低应力下机械性能

纯毛及毛混纺机织物的低应力下机械性能

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第三届中国国际毛纺织会议

作者： ron postle 王惠民澳大利亚新南威尔士大学西安工程科技学院纺织学院

纯毛及毛混纺织物的综合性能与织物的手感、裁缝及成型性能密切相关。织物的这些特性可以用低应力下的机械、表面及尺寸性能进行表征,并在纺织与服装的加工中得到合理的控制。本文采用 FAST 与 KESF 两套仪器研究市场上一些国产精纺毛... 详细信息

纯毛及毛混纺织物的综合性能与织物的手感、裁缝及成型性能密切相关。织物的这些特性可以用低应力下的机械、表面及尺寸性能进行表征,并在纺织与服装的加工中得到合理的控制。本文采用 FAST 与 KESF 两套仪器研究市场上一些国产精纺毛织物在低应力下的力学与表面性能;讨论低应力下的力学性能与织物的面密度的关系,分析特殊织物的表面性能,同时探讨高档轻薄织物的成型性与服装的缝纫性能。

关键词：织物裁缝性能纯毛与毛混纺机织物低应力下的机械性能表面性能成型性能

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