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Experimental analysis of infragravity waves in two eroded microtidal beaches

Acta Oceanologica Sinica 2017年第5期36卷 31-43页

作者： mario conde-frias luis otero juan camilo restrepo juan carlos ortiz Geosciences Research Group GE04 Department of PhysicsUniversidad del NorteBarranquilla 081007Colombia

This work aims to contribute to the characterization and understanding ofinfragravity waves on two beaches with erosion problems. For this reason, we have used an array of ADCP and a pressure sensor to measure wave parameters and pressure inside and outside of the surf zone during the dry and rainy period in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar （both dissipative and eroded beaches） located in the Colombian Caribbean coast. Based on these measurements, we have carried out a spectral analysis in order to identify the frequency components that characterize the wave and its energy; thus, we identified the characteristic frequencies of iufragravity waves to finally filter the infragravity signal on each beach in different seasonal periods. Among the results of the Welch spectrum applied to surface elevation time series, we found that, the frequencies＇ energy of the sea-swell band decreases due to bottom friction and wave breaking as the wave approaches the shore, while the frequencies＇ energy of the infragravity band increases significantly. In addition, for the wavelet analysis, we could observe how the energy of the infragravity band, especially the lowest frequencies gain energy as the waves approaches the coast. Furthermore, based on the infragravity wave obtained from the extreme wave event registered during the field campaign we can conclude that the contribution of this signal is important in the erosion problems presented in the beaches of Galerazamba and Manzanillo del Mar. Finally, these results show the need to realize other studies that allow us to understand deeply, the role of infragravity waves on the morphological changes that occurs in these beaches.

关键词： infragravity waves long waves experimental analysis fourier analysis wavelet transform

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Suspended sediment transport in the Magdalena River(Colombia,South America):Hydrologic regime,rating parameters and effective discharge variability

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International Journal of Sediment Research 2016年第01期 25-35页

作者： Aldemar Higgins juan camilo restrepo juan carlos ortiz Jorge Pierini luis otero (UNS-CIC-CCT)

The Magdalena River has the greatest length（1612 km）and drainage area（257400 km2）of any river system in Colombia,and its watershed occupies 24%of the Colombian *** river originates in the Andean Cordillera at an elevation of 3685 m and flows to its mouth in the Caribbean Sea（Bocas de Cenizas）.For this study,information on daily flow discharge（Q）,suspended sediment transport(Qsand mean suspended sediment concentration（Cs）from 1990-2010 for the Magdalena River,based on measurements at the Caiamar gauging station（the closest station to the mouth）,was provided by the Institute of Hydrology,Meteorology and Environmental Studies of Colombia（IDEAM in Spanish）.The mean annual suspended sediment load was 169±73×10～6tyr-1for the period from 1990-1999 and145±47×10～6 t yr1for the period from 2000-2010,amounting to a 14%reduction in the suspended sediment transport rate between the two *** sediment rating curve（Qs=aQb）was also evaluated for these two periods（1990-1999 and 2000-2010）.An analysis of the regression coefficients（a.b）for the two periods showed a decrease in b and an increase in a after 1999,which coincides with a decrease in suspended sediment *** change might be attributed to natural factors,including the accumulation of sediment in the Depresion Momposina and variation in hydro-climatological patterns in the Caribbean *** in effective transport were confirmed using three methods（Log-Normal and Normal distribution,and magnitude-frequency histogram）for the study period.

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