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Jonzac Thermal Spring Water Reinforces Skin Barrier Function of Human Skin and Presents a Soothing and Regenerating Effect

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Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications 2023年第4期13卷 247-268页

作者： Valérie Cauche Coralie Martineau Giuseppe Percoco Marie Reynier Stéphanie Scalvino laurent peno-mazzarino Laboratoires Léa Avenue Paul Langevin Périgny France Eurofins BIO-EC laboratory 1 chemin de Saulxier Longjumeau France

The skin is a formidable physical and biological barrier which communicates continuously with the outside of the body. And the stratum corneum, the outermost layer of human epidermis, plays a central role in the interaction between the cutaneous tissue and the external environment. The horny layer, and more generally the whole skin layers, avoid the penetration of harmful exogenous agents, produce molecules named anti-microbial peptides which impact the composition of the cutaneous microbiota, regulate the internal corporal temperature, avoid the water loss from the inside of the body and constitute an incredible efficient anti-oxidant network. Nevertheless, nowadays, the skin is more and more solicited by the different elements of the cutaneous exposome, including atmospheric pollution and solar radiations, which can cause a dramatic acceleration of the skin ageing process. As a consequence, due to the multifunctional protective role of the skin, during the recent decade the cosmetic industry invested massively in the development of new raw materials and end-products (dermo-cosmetics) able to preserve an optimal state of the skin regarding the external environment. Based on their physical-chemical properties thermal spring waters, which are extremely rich in inorganics ions, are interesting and powerful candidates to be part, as integral component, of new efficient dermo-cosmetic formulations dedicated to protect the skin from the external stimuli. The aim of the present work was to investigate and characterize the activity of Jonzac thermal spring water on the skin. Using different models, we proved for the first time that Jonzac thermal spring water reinforces the barrier function of the skin by modulating the expression of key markers including filaggrin and human beta defensin 2 on ex vivo human skin. The ex vivo and in vivo hydration activity, by Raman spectroscopy and corneometry respectively, has been also demonstrated. We have also shown that Jonzac thermal

关键词： Jonzac Thermal Spring Water Skin Barrier Function Soothing Effect Regenerating Effect Skin Hydration Isotonicity Dermo-Cosmetics Ex Vivo Explants

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Seaberry (Hippophae rhamnoides L.) and Water Lily (Nymphaeaceae) Extracts Protect Human Skin against Blue Light, Environmental Pollutants and UV-A Irradiations in an Ex VivoModel System

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Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications 2019年第3期9卷 244-262页

作者： Softa Mohamed Percoco Giuseppe Almeida Scalvino Stéphanie peno-mazzarino laurent Pauline Bony Lati Elian INDERMA dermatological laboratory Ivry sur SeineFrance BIO-EC laboratory LongjumeauFrance

Background: The skin is the outer shell of the mammalian body and it is continuously exposed to a large spectrum of external stimuli including sun irradiation and atmospheric pollutants. These factors present deleterious effects on the cutaneous compartment by altering the skin barrier functions and accelerating the aging of the skin. Objectives: The goal of this study was to investigate the activity of Seaberry and Water Lily extracts, here called Dermina complex, against different external stresses. Methods: Human skin explants were exposed to different stimuli including delipidation by organic solvents, blue light, atmospheric pollutants and UV-A. The activity of the Seaberry and Water Lily extracts was assessed by immunohistochemistry and by biochemical assays. Results: We showed that Dermina complex prevents the delipidation-induced filaggrin decrease, suggesting that these plant extracts exhibited barrier function protecting properties. Also, we observed that Dermina complex showed an antioxidant and DNA protection activity by decreasing the activated form of Nrf2, the oxidized proteins and the formation of γ-H2AX induced upon stress conditions. The Dermina complex also decreased the pro-inflammatory cytokine IL-1 alpha released in the culture medium following atmospheric pollutants and UV-A exposure confirming its anti-inflammatory activity. Moreover, Dermina complex reduced the blue light-induced overexpression of opsin 3, indicating that its skin protection activities may be due, in part, to filter property against environmental stresses. Conclusions: Dermina complex shows a protective activity of the skin against different environmental stresses and these extracts may be able to slow down the aging process of the cutaneous compartment.

关键词： Exposome Environmental Pollution Blue Light Oxidative Stress Plant Extracts Skin Explants

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