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Protective and Regenerative Efficacy of a Plant Oil-Based Day and Night Cream: Investigated by a Novel Approach to Reveal the Impact of Blue Light Irradiation on Epidermal Barrier Integrity and Lipid Matrix

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Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications 2024年第3期14卷 227-241页

作者： Dorothee Dähnhardt Stephan Dähnhardt-Pfeiffer Isabel Simon Dana Ditgen inge holland Dörte Segger Peter Staib Microscopy Services Dähnhardt GmbH Flintbek Germany Research & Development and Regulatory Affairs Kneipp GmbH Wuerzburg Germany SGS INSTITUT FRESENIUS GmbH Hamburg Germany

In recent years, the harmful effects of blue light (400 - 500 nm) as a component of visible light (400 - 700 nm) have increasingly gained attention of science, industry, and consumers. To date, only a few in vivo test methods for measuring the effects of blue light on the skin have been described. A direct measurement method that can detect the immediate effects of blue light on the epidermal permeability barrier (EPB) is still lacking. In this study, we present a new methodological approach that can be used to investigate both the protective and regenerative effects of cosmetic products on the EPB after blue light irradiation. In a study with 14 female volunteers, it was investigated whether the regular application of an O/W emulsion (day cream) can strengthen and protect the epidermal barrier against damaging blue light radiation of 60 J/cm 2 (protective study design) and also whether a disruption of the epidermal barrier caused by blue light radiation is restored faster and better by the regular application of another O/W emulsion (night cream) than in product-untreated skin (regenerative study design). The two O/W emulsions are different in plant oil, active ingredient composition and texture. The seven-day treatment with the day cream initially led to a significant increase in the normalized lipid lamellae length in the intercellular space, whereas the irradiation with blue light after 24 hours led to a significant decrease in the lipid lamellae length in the untreated test area, but not in the area previously treated with the product. Regarding the regenerative study design, a two-day treatment with the night cream was able to restore a blue-light-induced decrease in lipid lamellae length in the intercellular space. In summary, with the study designs presented here, the protective and regenerative effect of two cosmetic products could be demonstrated for the first time on the integrity of the EPB after blue light irradiation and the data showed that the Lipbar

关键词： Skin Care Blue Light Irradiation Skin Barrier Intercellular Lipid Lamellae Electron Microscopy

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Protective and Regenerative Anti-Pollution Efficacy of a Plant Oil-Based Day and Night Cream: Investigated by a Novel Approach to Reveal the Impact of Pollutants on Epidermal Barrier Integrity and Lipid Matrix

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Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications 2023年第4期13卷 302-321页

作者： Dorothee Dähnhardt Stephan Dähnhardt-Pfeiffer Isabel Simon Dana Ditgen inge holland Dörte Segger Jürgen Blaak Peter Staib Microscopy Services Dä hnhardt GmbH Flintbek Germany Research & Development and Regulatory Affairs Kneipp GmbH Wuerzburg Germany SGS INSTITUT FRESENIUS GmbH Hamburg Germany

In the wake of ever-increasing environmental pollution, human skin in the modern urban world is exposed to increased levels of harmful environmental pollutants. Many studies have shown that these pollutants can weaken the epidermal skin barrier and thus facilitate the penetration of these substances into the skin. An important goal of modern skin care against harmful environmental influences should therefore be to protect and strengthen the epidermal barrier and to repair occurring damage quickly and efficiently. With this in mind, in the present study we investigated what damage cigarette smoke causes to the epidermal barrier and 1) whether the regular application of a O/W emulsion (Day Cream) can protectively strengthen the epidermal barrier against environmental damage and 2) whether a cigarette smoke-induced disruption of the epidermal barrier is restored faster and better by the regular application of a another O/W emulsion (Night Cream) than in product-untreated skin. The two products are slightly different in plant-oil, active ingredient composition and texture. Firstly, the study has shown that the Lipbarvis? method is suitable for measuring the effect of cigarette smoke, in contrast to conventional biophysical measurement methods (transepidermal water loss, skin hydration). Secondly, both products were able to improve skin barrier function in the corresponding test scenario. This was demonstrated for both test products by a significantly reduced TEWL, significantly increased skin hydration and significantly improved length of the lipid lamellae in the intercellular space, as well as the protective effect of the day cream on the epidermal skin barrier and the regenerative properties of the tested night cream. .

关键词： Skin Care Anti-Pollution Skin Barrier Intercellular Lipid Lamellae Cigarette Smoke

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