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Different responses of two adjacent artificial beaches to Typhoon Hato in Zhuhai,China

Journal of Oceanology and Limnology 2024年第2期42卷 511-521页

作者： Jun ZHU qing WANG Chao ZHAN Fengjuan SUN Wenhao HUA Jianhui LIU hongshuai qi Yu YANG Coastal Research Institute Ludong UniversityYantai 264025China Third Institute of Oceanography Ministry of Natural ResourcesXiamen 261005China

Major differences in beach erosion between two neighboring artificial beaches Xiangluwan Beach(XL beach)and Meiliwan Beach(ML beach)in Zhuhai,China,were studied after Super Typhoon Hato.In this study,a fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model(FUNWAVE)-Total Variation Diminishing(TVD)was used to distinguish the main impact factors,their relative contributions,and the hydrodynamic mechanisms underlying the different beach responses.Results show that compared to the ML beach,the main reason for the relatively weak erosion on Xiangluwan(XL)beach was the smaller beach berm height(accounting for approximately 75.9%of the erosion response).Regarding the beach with a higher berm,the stronger wave-induced undertow flow,along with the higher sediment concentration,led to a higher offshore sediment transport flux,resulting in more severe erosion relative to the beach with a smaller berm height.The second most important reason explaining the weak erosion on XL beach was the absence of seawalls(accounting for approximately 17.9%of the erosion response).Wave reflection induced by the seawall could cause higher suspended sediment concentration,resulting in a toe scouring near the seawall.The offshore submerged breakwater protected XL beach slightly(accounting for approximately 6.1%of the erosion response).Due to the higher water level induced by storm surge,most of the wave energy could penetrate through the submerged breakwater.The effect of the larger berm width of XL beach was negligible.Compared to the beach with a larger berm width,the erosion/deposition regions in the beach with a narrower berm width showed shoreward migration,without significant changes in the erosion/deposition extent.Despite of this,the larger berm width could reduce the wave energy reaching the shoreline.This study of the storm stability of artificial beaches may be applied to beach restoration design.

关键词： beach erosion berm height berm width seawall fully nonlinear Boussinesq wave model(FUNWAVE)

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Physically modulated phytoplankton production and export at submesoscales in the oligotrophic South China Sea Basin

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Science China Earth Sciences 2024年第8期67卷 2681-2698页

作者： Zhonghua ZHAO Mengdi XU Bangqin HUANG Wenfang LU hongshuai qi Feng CAI Yuwu JIANG State Key Laboratory of Marine Environmental Science Xiamen University College of Ocean and Earth Sciences Xiamen University Fujian Provincial Key Laboratory for Coastal Ecology and Environmental Studies Xiamen University National Observation and Research Station for the Taiwan Strait Marine Ecosystem Xiamen University School of Marine Sciences Sun Yat-Sen University Southern Marine Science and Engineering Guangdong Laboratory (Zhuhai) Laboratory of Ocean and Coast Geology Third Institute of Oceanography Ministry of Natural Resources

Oceanic submesoscales can significantly influence phytoplankton production and export owing to their similar timescales of days. Based on two-year Biogeochemical Argo(BGC-Argo) observations, this study investigated the development of submesoscale instabilities, particularly symmetric and mixed-layer baroclinic instabilities, and their impacts on biological production and export in the oligotrophic South China Sea basin. In the northern basin, near-surface winter blooms consistently cooccurred with seasonally deepened mixed layers. However, significantly stronger and weaker winter blooms were observed over two consecutive winters within the BGC-Argo observation period. During the first winter, symmetric-instability-induced upward nutrient entrainment played a crucial role in initiating the strong winter bloom in early December, when the mixed layer was approximately 20–30 m shallower than the nutricline. This bloom occurred approximately 20–30 days earlier than that anticipated owing to the contact between the seasonally deepened mixed layer and mesoscale-cyclone-induced uplifted nutricline. The symmetric instability also facilitated the export of fixed phytoplankton carbon from the surface to deeper layers.Conversely, during the second winter, remarkably intense mixed-layer baroclinic instability associated with an intense mesoscale anticyclone led to more significant shoaling of the mixed layer compared to the nutricline, thus increasing the vertical distance between the two layers. Under this condition, upward nutrient injection, phytoplankton bloom, and carbon export were suppressed. In contrast, the BGC-Argo float in the central basin revealed significantly inhibited seasonality of phytoplankton biomass and submesoscale instabilities compared to those in the northern basin, primarily owing to the significantly shallower winter mixed layer.

关键词： Submesoscale instability Phytoplankton Nutrient transport BGC-Argo South China Sea

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Typhoon vs. cold wave: a comparative assessment of geomorphic response and boulder displacement using RFID technology

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Acta Oceanologica Sinica 2023年第7期42卷 25-40页

作者： Lingbo Li Feng Cai hongshuai qi Lulu qiao Shaohua Zhao Gen Liu Jianhui Liu College of Marine Geosciences Ocean University of ChinaQingdao 266100China Laboratory of Ocean and Coast Geology Third Institute of OceanographyMinistry of Natural ResourcesXiamen 361005China Fujian Provincial Key Laboratory of Marine Ecological Conservation and Restoration Xiamen 361005China

Extreme storm events in coastal zones play significant roles in shaping the morphology of boulder beaches.However,boulder displacement and the geomorphological evolution of boulder beaches driven by different extreme storm events,especially typhoon events,remain poorly understood.Thus,boulder displacement and the geomorphic response on a boulder beach in Fujian,southeastern China,were explored before,during and after a cold wave event(Dec.1–7,2020)and before and after Typhoon In-Fa(Jul.19–27,2021),a large tropical storm.This was achieved by tracking 42 tagged boulders distributed in the intertidal and supratidal zones using Radio Frequency Identification(RFID)and topographic surveys using real-time kinematic techniques,respectively.The results showed obvious disparities in boulder displacement in different geomorphic zones due to cold wave and typhoon events that were mainly characterized by migration magnitude,range,direction,and mode of transport.The typhoon event led to rapid and substantial changes in the overall morphology of the boulder beach,while the cold wave event impacted the intertidal morphology of the boulder beach to only a small extent.The surrounding structure of boulders,beach slope and beach elevation had a combined dominant effect on boulder displacement under the same extreme event.Hydrodynamic factors(effective wave energy fluxes,incident wave direction,storm surge and water level)had dominant effects on boulder displacement during different extreme events.In terms of a single event,the magnitude of the boulder displacement driven by the typhoon was much greater than that driven by the cold wave.However,considering the frequency and duration of cold waves in winter,the impact of multiple consecutive cold waves on the geomorphology of the boulder beach cannot be ignored in this study area.Alternating and repeated interactions between these two processes constitute the complete geomorphic evolution of the boulder beach.This study contributes to improved predictions of the morphodynamic respons

关键词： boulder displacement RFID tracing technology extreme events boulder beach morphology

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Clay mineral compositions in the surface sediment of the Chanthaburi coast(northeastern Gulf of Thailand)and their implications on sediment provenance

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Journal of Oceanology and Limnology 2023年第5期41卷 1742-1752页

作者： Min CHEN hongshuai qi Apitida WASUWATCHARAPONG Apichai KANCHANAPANT Wichien INTASEN Guobiao HUANG Xuan LIU Third Institute of Oceanography Ministry of Natural ResourcesXiamen 361005China Department of Mineral Resources Ministry of Natural Resources and EnvironmentRatchathewiBangkok 10400Thailand Fujian Provincial Key Laboratory of Marine Physical and Geological Processes Xiamen 361005China

Clay mineral composition represents an important tracer of sediment source area,migration processes,and paleoclimatic conditions.Clay mineral analysis was performed on 15 surface sediment samples collected from the coast of Chanthaburi,Thailand.Results show that the composition of clay minerals in the study area differs substantially from that in surrounding regions of the Gulf of Thailand.The clay minerals of the Chanthaburi coast are dominated by kaolinite(~56%),followed by smectite(~21%),illite(~14%),and low concentrations of chlorite(~8%).The average illite chemistry index and crystallinity are 0.93 and 0.32,respectively.Comparative analysis of the clay mineral composition of surface sediments in several typical areas around the Gulf of Thailand indicated that the clays of the Chanthaburi coast are mainly derived from parent rock weathering in the small watersheds of the Chanthaburi and Welu rivers and the surrounding islands.Terrestrial input from the northern coast of the Gulf of Thailand(excluding the Mekong River)was previously considered negligible;however,the present results indicate that such input has impact on the eastern Gulf of Thailand.The warm humid climatic conditions in Southeast Asia are the primary factors that affect the strong chemical weathering in the study area,followed by the nature of the parent rock.

关键词： clay mineral surface sediment provenance coast of Thailand

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Using video imagery to reconstruct the 3D intertidal terrain along a beach with multiple cusps

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Acta Oceanologica Sinica 2023年第7期42卷 1-9页

作者： Feng Cai Hang Yin hongshuai qi Jixiang Zheng Yuwu Jiang Zhubin Cao Yanyu He Laboratory of Ocean and Coast Geology Third Institute of OceanographyMinistry of Natural ResourcesXiamen 361005China College of Ocean and Earth Sciences Xiamen UniversityXiamen 361104China College of Harbour Coastal and Offshore EngineeringHohai UniversityNanjing 210098China

A high-frequency,high-resolution shore-based video monitoring system(VMS)was installed on a macrotidal(tidal amplitude>4 m)beach with multiple cusps along the Quanzhou coast,China.Herein,we propose a video imagery-based method that is coupled with waterline and water level observations to reconstruct the terrain of the intertidal zone over one tidal cycle.Furthermore,the beach cusp system(BCS)was precisely processed and embedded into the digital elevation model(DEM)to more effectively express the microrelief and detailed characteristics of the intertidal zone.During a field experiment conducted in January 2022,the reconstructed DEM was deemed satisfactory.The DEM was verified by RTK-GPS and had an average vertical root mean square error along corresponding RTK-GPS-derived intertidal profiles and corresponding BCS points of 0.134 m and 0.065 m,respectively.The results suggest that VMSs are an effective tool for investigating coastal geomorphic processes.

关键词： intertidal terrain beach cusp video monitoring system waterline method feature embedment

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Sediment source-to-sink process variations of sandy-muddy transitional beaches and their morphological indications

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Acta Oceanologica Sinica 2023年第7期42卷 10-24页

作者： Shaohua Zhao Feng Cai hongshuai qi Jianhui Liu Chao Cao Gen Liu Gang Lei Laboratory of Ocean and Coast Geology Third Institute of OceanographyMinistry of Natural ResourcesXiamen 361005China Key Laboratory of Marine Ecological Conservation and Restoration Ministry of Natural ResourcesXiamen 361005China Fujian Provincial Key Laboratory of Marine Ecological Conservation and Restoration Xiamen 361005China

The clay mineralogy of 28 sandy-muddy transitional beach(SMT-Beach)sediments and surrounding mountain river sediments along the coasts of southeastern China was systematically investigated to reveal the sediment source-to-sink process variations of such beaches and their morphological indications.The results show that the clay mineral assemblages of these SMT-Beaches mainly comprise of almost equal illite(~30%),kaolinite(~28%),chlorite(~22%),and smectite(~20%)contents.From the surrounding mountain rivers to the SMT-Beaches,clay mineral assemblages show distinct spatial changes characterized by a large decrease(~40%)in kaolinite,whereas the other three clay minerals present relative increases,especially clear for smectite.The muddy sediment sources of SMT-Beaches inferred from the clay mineralogy are mainly derived from nearby mountain rivers coupled with long-distance transport and penetration of the Changjiang River.The sandy sediments of these beaches are predominantly sourced from nearby mountain rivers,the weathering products of surrounding rocks in both mainland and island environments,and erosion of the“Old Red Sand”and“Red Soil Platform”.However,the sandy sediment sources of the SMT-Beaches are largely reduced because of the remarkable decrease in the river fluvial supply associated with intensive human activities such as dam construction and coastal reclamation.Subsequently,the sandy sections of SMT-Beaches present clear erosion and have revealed by both time series remote sensing images and a compilation of published literature.In contrast,the muddy sediment supply of SMT-Beaches is temporarily stable and relatively constant,resulting in the landward migration of the mudflats with relative transgression or accumulation.These findings highlight that the natural evolution processes of SMT-Beaches have been greatly reshaped by intensive human activities.

关键词： sandy-muddy transitional beach clay mineral sediment source human activity fluvial discharge morphological evolution

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Dynamic geomorphology and storm response characteristics of the promontory-straight beach-a case of Gulei Beach, Fujian

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Acta Oceanologica Sinica 2023年第7期42卷 64-78页

作者： Chao Cao Zijian Mao Feng Cai hongshuai qi Jianhui Liu Gang Lei Shaohua Zhao Gen Liu Third Institute of Oceanography Ministry of Natural ResourcesXiamen 361005China Key Laboratory of Marine Ecological Conservation and Restoration Ministry of Natural ResourcesXiamen 361005China Fujian Provincial Key Laboratory of Marine Ecological Conservation and Restoration Xiamen 361005China Fujian Provincial Station for Field Observation and Research of Island and Coastal Zone in Zhangzhou Zhangzhou 363200China School of Advanced Manufacturing Fuzhou UniversityJinjiang 362200China

As one of the main areas of tropical storm action in the northwestern Pacific Ocean,South China experiences several typhoons each year,and coastal erosion is a problem,making the area a natural testing ground for studying the dynamic geomorphological processes and storm response of promontory-straight coasts.This study is based on three years of topographic data and remote sensing imagery of Gulei Beach and uses topographic profile morphology,single width erosion-accretion and mean change,combined with the Coastsat model to quantify the seasonal and interannual variability and storm response of the beach and to explain the evolution of shoreline change and beach dynamics geomorphology in the last decade.Gulei Beach has been in a state of overall erosion and local accretion for a long time,with relatively obvious cyclical changes;seasonal changes are also obvious,which are mainly characterized by summer accretion and winter erosion,with accretion at the top of the bay and accretion and erosion on the north and south sides of the bay corner,respectively;the seasonal erosion-accretion volume of the beach profile ranges from-80 m3/m to 95.52 m3/m,and the interannual erosion-accretion volume ranges from-69.09 m3/m to 87.31 m3/m.The response of beaches to typhoons with different paths varies greatly depending on the length,slope,orientation and scale of beach development.The large and gently developing Futou beach is less responsive to storms,while the less developed headlands in the southern Gulei Peninsula are more susceptible to disturbance by external factors and respond more strongly to typhoons.Storm distance is more influential than storm intensity.Under the influence of human activities,obvious erosion hotspots develop during normal weather,but storm processes produce redistribution of beach material patterns,and erosion hotspots disappear after storms.The results of this study enrich the theory of beach dynamics geomorphology and provide technical support for disaster prevention and mitigation,as well as ecolo

关键词： promontory-straight beach dynamic geomorphology storm response Gulei Peninsula

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Analysis of wave shoaling and shore-breakers on a low tide terrace beach based on in-situ measurements at Xisha Bay on South China coast

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Acta Oceanologica Sinica 2023年第7期42卷 175-184页

作者： Yuan Li Chi Zhang hongshuai qi Jiacheng Song Weiqi Dai Shanhang Chi Jian Shi Dake Chen The National Key Laboratory of Water Disaster Prevention Hohai UniversityNanjing 210024China College of Harbour Coastal and Offshore EngineeringHohai UniversityNanjing 210024China State Key Laboratory of Estuarine and Coastal Research East China Normal UniversityShanghai 200241China Third Institute of Oceanography Ministry of Natural ResourcesXiamen 361005China Shanghai Waterway Engineering Design and Consulting Co. LtdShanghai 200120China Yellow River Institute of Hydraulic Research Yellow River Conservancy CommissionZhengzhou 450000China Nanjing Hydraulic Research Institute Nanjing 210029China

Low tide terrace beach is a main beach type along South China coasts with strong tidal actions.How strong tides affect wave transformations on low tide terrace beach still remains unclear.In this study,in-situ measurements are conducted on the low terrace beach at Xisha Bay to provide quantitative descriptions of wave shoaling and shore-breaker phenomena under the tidal effects.It is found that wave breaking is unsaturated on the low tide terrace beach at Xisha Bay.Magnitudes of wave skewness and asymmetry increase as wave shoals and achieve the maximum value at the shore-breaker,and then decrease rapidly.Mean energy dissipation rates of shore-breakers are tide-modulated since the bottom slope changes at the shoreward boundary of wave propagation in a tidal cycle.The remaining wave energy flux at the initialization of the shore-breaker is 1%–12%of offshore wave energy flux,and the energy flux ratio decreases with increasing offshore wave heights.Wave attenuation at shore-breakers can be estimated directly from offshore wave conditions based on findings in this study,favoring designs of seawalls or beach nourishment projects.Field datasets on wave transformations can also be used for verifications of wave numerical models.

关键词： sandy beach low tide terrace waves shore-breakers South China coasts

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Variation in cross-shore wind speeds influenced by the morphology of nourished beach

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Acta Oceanologica Sinica 2023年第7期42卷 149-159页

作者： Xu Chen Jianhui Liu Feng Cai Yanyu He Bailiang Li hongshuai qi Shaohua Zhao Gen Liu Third Institute of Oceanography Ministry of Natural ResourcesXiamen 361005China Key Laboratory of Marine Ecological Conservation and Restoration Ministry of Natural ResourcesXiamen 361005China Key Laboratory of Marine Ecology Protection and Restoration of Fujian Province Xiamen 361005China Department of Health and Environmental Sciences Xi’an Jiaotong-Liverpool UniversitySuzhou 215123China

The cross-shore variation in wind speeds influenced by beach nourishment,especially the dramatic changes at the nourished berm,is important for understanding the aeolian sand transport processes that occur after beach nourishment,which will contribute to better beach nourishment project design on windy coasts.In this paper,the influencing factors and potential mechanism of wind speed variation at the edge of a nourished berm were studied.Field observations,together with the Duna model,were used to study the cross-shore wind speed distribution for different nourishment schemes.The results show that the nourished berm elevation and beachface slope are the main factors controlling the increase in wind speed at the berm edge.When the upper beach slope is constant,the wind speed at the berm edge has a positive linear correlation with the berm elevation.When the berm elevation remains constant,the wind speed at the berm edge is also proportional to the upper beach slope.Considering the coupling effects of nourished berm elevation and beachface slope,a model for predicting the wind speed amplification rate at the nourished berm edge was established,and the underlying coupling mechanism was illustrated.

关键词： beach nourishment nourished beach berm cross-shore wind speed Duna model wind speed amplification rate

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Nourishment and disaster mitigation efficiency of feeding sand on the dry section of a dissipative beach

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Acta Oceanologica Sinica 2023年第7期42卷 138-148页

作者： Yazhuang Zhao hongshuai qi Shaohua Zhao Feng Cai Jianhui Liu Pu Xu Zheyu Xiao Yanyu He Zhiyong Zhang Third Institute of Oceanography Ministry of Natural ResourcesXiamen 361005China College of Civil Engineering Fuzhou UniversityFuzhou 350108China Power China Huadong Engineering Corporation Limited Hangzhou 310014China College of Marine Geosciences Ocean University of ChinaQingdao 266100China

To explore the nourishment effect and disaster reduction efficiency of a fully dissipative dry beach under the impact of storms,this paper uses the measured topography and hydrodynamic data to establish a one-dimensional numerical model of the XBeach beach profile.By numerically modeling the change in the nourished profile for different dry beach widths under normal waves and storm conditions and the recovery process of the profile after the storm,the degree of response in dry beach nourishment for the fully dissipative beach is analyzed.The results show that under normal wave conditions,the response of the nourished dry beach is obvious.Sediment on the dry beach erodes heavily,and the shoreline moves landward over a long distance.With the increase in the width and size of the dry beach,the wave height at the bottom of the backshore profile decreases,the wave height attenuation rate increases continuously,and the wave elimination effect is remarkable.When the storm incident wave intensifies,the wave height attenuation rate of the nourished dry beach decreases,indicating that the smaller the storm intensity is,the more significant the wave reduction effect of the nourished dry beach is.At the same time,different profile arrangements of nourished dry beaches suffer from different degrees of erosion under storm conditions,with significant changes in profile morphology.With intensified storm action,the intensity of sediment erosion in the nourished dry beach increases,the nourishment is weakened,and the recovery effect of the profile after the storm is not obvious.The results of the numerical modeling highlight that the dry beach nourishment method can resist storms to a certain extent,but the overall effect is relatively limited.

关键词： tropical storm numerical model XBeach nourishment of dry beach disaster mitigation efficiency

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