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A proposed directional function and wind-wave directional spectrum

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Acta oceanologica Sinica 1995年第2期14卷 155-166页

作者： Wen Shengchang Wu Kejian guan changlong Sun Shicai and Zhang Dacuo (institute of {3. oceanography, ocean university of Oingdao, Oingdao 2.6003, china.

A directional function for frequencies equal to and larger than the peak frequency of a wind-wave frequency spectrum is constructed by fitting the angular spreading based on the analytically derived directional spectrum of Wen et al. (1993. Journal of oceanography, 49(2), 13.～147, 149～172). For frequencies smaller than the peak frequency, the directional function is obtained by comparing and analyzing existing formulas. The nondimensional wind-wave frequency spectrum of Wen et al. (1994, Progress in Natural Seience, 4(4). 407～427;4 (5), 586～596) has been used together with the directional function just mentioned to obtain the directional spectrum for easier application.

关键词： Wind-wave directional function directional spectrum

The reservoir characteristics and their controlling factors of the sublacustrine fan in the Paleogene Dongying Formation, Bohai Sea,china

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Journal of Palaeogeography 2024年第1期13卷 127-148页

作者： Xiao-Jun Pang guan-Min Wang Meng Zhao Qing-Bin Wang Xue-Fang Zhang School of Geosciences China University of Petroleum(East China)QingdaoShandong 266580China Tianjin Branch of china.National Offshore Oil Corporation Limited Tianjin 300459China

Sublacustrine fan is an important element in continental lacustrine basins and is significant for reservoir exploration. Oil and gas resources have been found in the sublacustrine fan sandstone reservoirs of the Paleogene Dongying Formation in the Bohai Sea. In this study, the characteristics of the sublacustrine fan reservoirs and the controlling factors are studied using information from logging, cores, physical properties,casting thin sections, X-ray diffraction of clay minerals, vitrinite reflectance, rock pyrolysis, manometry data,and 3. seismic data. The sublacustrine fans of the Dongying Formation in the LD10, QHD3., and BZ21 structures show high-quality reservoirs with porosity >15 % and permeability >5 m D. The main controlling factors of the high-quality reservoirs are attributed to the favorable sedimentary facies type and negligible compaction,and cementation, substantial dissolution of K-feldspar, overpressure, and the development of faults and fractures. A high-quality sublacustrine fan reservoir model has been established to explain how these factors affected the physical properties. The favorable targets for oil and gas exploration in the Dongying Formation of Bohai Sea include undercompacted sandy debris flow reservoirs showing the dissolution of K-feldspar, and the reservoirs which are connected to the source rocks by faults. This study provides insights to establish the relationship between sedimentology, diagenesis and reservoir quality. The results of this study are significant for the exploration and development of the sublacustrine fan sandstone reservoirs in the Bohai Sea and analogous sandstone reservoirs elsewhere.

关键词： Sublacustrine fan High-quality reservoir Dissolution Overpressure Fault Bohai Sea

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海浪波面极大值分布的非线性影响

海洋学报 1998年第5期20卷 23-29页

作者：宋金宝楼顺里田纪伟管长龙青岛海洋大学物理海洋实验室青岛海洋大学物理海洋研究所

依非线性海浪模型，在二阶近似下，利用特征函数展开技术和直接求矩的方法，导出了定点波面位移及其对时间的一阶和二阶导数的联合分布。由此联合分布，导出了二阶非线性近似下的波面极大值分布。它由线性意义下的海浪频谱及所考虑的二... 详细信息

依非线性海浪模型，在二阶近似下，利用特征函数展开技术和直接求矩的方法，导出了定点波面位移及其对时间的一阶和二阶导数的联合分布。由此联合分布，导出了二阶非线性近似下的波面极大值分布。它由线性意义下的海浪频谱及所考虑的二阶级。波相互作用所确定。当忽略非线性影响时，文中给出的波面极大值分布退化为Ｃａｒｔｗｒｉｇｈｔ和Ｌｏｎｇｕｅｔ－Ｈｉｇｇｉｎｓ所导出的分布。

关键词：非线性海浪模型波面极大值分布海浪

Examination of wind-wave interaction source term in WAVEWATCH Ⅲ with tropical cyclone wind forcing

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Acta oceanologica Sinica 2011年第4期30卷 1-13页

作者： ZHAO Wei guan Shoude HONG Xin LI Peiliang TIAN Jiwei physical oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of China Qingdao 266100 China

Results of drag coefficient（CD） from field observations and laboratory wave tank experiments indicate that the operational wave model can overestimate wind energy input under high wind conditions. The wind-wave interaction source term in WAVEWATCH Ⅲ has been modified to examine its behavior with tropical cyclone wind forcing. Using high resolution wind input,numerical experiments under idealized wind field and tropical cyclone Bonnie（1998） were designed to evaluate performance of the modified models. Both experiments indicate that the modified models with reduced CD significantly decrease wind energy input into the wave model and then simulate lower significant wave height（SWH） than the original model. However,the effects on spatial distribution of SWH,mean wavelength,mean wave direction,and directional wave spectra are insignificant. Due to the reduced wind energy input,the idealized experiment shows that the modified models simulate lower SWH than the original model in all four quadrants. The decrease in the front quadrants is significantly larger than that in the rear quadrants;it is larger under higher winds than lower winds. The realistic experiment on tropical cyclone Bonnie shows that the modified model with the various downward trends of CD in high winds creates a simulation that agrees best with scanning radar altimeter observations.

关键词： drag coefficient wind-wave interaction tropical cyclone WAVEWATCH Ⅲ

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海浪方向谱估计方法的比较

海洋学报 1999年第3期21卷 119-125页

作者：赵栋梁管长龙吴克俭文圣常青岛海洋大学物理海洋研究所青岛266003

分别利用数值模拟和实测资料对目前被认为分辨力较高的最大似然法（MLM）、扩展本征矢方法（EEV）、扩展最大滴方法（EMEP）以及贝叶斯方法（BDM）等四种海浪方向谱估计方法的可靠性进行了分析，从不同频率、不同噪声水平和不同方向集... 详细信息

分别利用数值模拟和实测资料对目前被认为分辨力较高的最大似然法（MLM）、扩展本征矢方法（EEV）、扩展最大滴方法（EMEP）以及贝叶斯方法（BDM）等四种海浪方向谱估计方法的可靠性进行了分析，从不同频率、不同噪声水平和不同方向集中度三个角度检验其再现性、稳定性和实用性，结果表明MLM、EEV和BDM大致给出相同的方向分布，其中BDM的再现性最好，但实用性逊于MLM和EEV，EMEP由于稳定性差，不适用于实测资料的分析．

关键词：海浪方向谱估计法最大似然法扩展本征矢法

Numerical Study of the Secondary Circulations in Rip Current Systems

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Journal of ocean university of china 2015年第1期14卷 9-16页

作者： LI Rui guan changlong physical oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of China

To investigate the mechanism of secondary circulations in rip current systems, and to explore the relationship between wave conditions and secondary circulation intensity, a series of numerical experiments is performed using coupled nearshore wave model and circulation model. In these experiments, the rip currents and secondary circulations generated above barred beaches with rip channels are simulated. A comparison experiment is conducted to investigate the formation and hydrodynamics of the secondary circulations. Model results indicate that the secondary circulations consist of alongshore flows driven by wave set-up near the shoreline, part of the feeder currents driven by the wave set-up over the bars, and onshore flows at the end of the rip channel driven by wave breaking and convection. The existence of the secondary circulation barely affects the rip current, but narrows and intensifies the feeder currents. Three groups of experiments of varying incident wave conditions are performed to investigate the relationship between wave conditions and secondary circulation intensity. The velocity of the alongshore flow of the secondary circulation is sensitive to the variation of the incident wave height and water depth. It is also found that the alongshore flow intensity is in direct proportion to the alongshore variation of the wave height gradient between the bars and the shoreline.

关键词： secondary circulation rip current waves radiation stress

Laboratory Experiment on Wave Induced Turbulence

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Journal of ocean university of china 2018年第4期17卷 721-726页

作者： WEI Lai guan changlong TROITSKAYA Yuliya physical oceanography Laboratory Ocean University of China institute of Applied Physics Russian Academy of Science

A laboratory experiment was conducted inside a wind wave tank to investigate the wave induced turbulence. In this experiment, the wave surface elevation and velocity beneath the water surface were measured simultaneously to investigate the relation between the wave status and wave induced turbulence. The profile of the turbulent dissipation rate and Reynolds stress were calculated using experimental data. The effect of the wave status on turbulence is investigated with regard to the wind wave, swell, and mixed wave conditions. It was depicted that the turbulence decreased with increasing depth from the water surface and that the turbulence that was induced by a wave with larger wavelength and wave height is much stronger for the same wave status. Finally, we observed that the wind wave is more effective in activating the wave induced turbulence.

关键词： wave induced turbulence turbulent dissipation rate wave-turbulence decomposition

Analytically Derived Wind Wave Growth Relations

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china.ocean Engineering 2002年第3期17卷 359-368页

作者： guan changlong(管长龙) SUN Qun(孙群) physical oceanography Laboratory and institute of physical oceanography Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao 266003 China Physical Oceanography Laboratory and Institute of Physical Oceanography Ocean University of Qingdao Qingdao 266003 China

By the use of the 3.2 power law presented by Toba combined with the significant wave energy balance equation for wind wave, wind wave growth at a limited fetch is analytically investigated. The new wind wave growth relations (WWGRs) are analytically derived with sheltering coefficient and wind drag coefficient as parameters. The geometrical average of observational values of sheltering coefficient and the arithmetic average of observational values of wind drag coefficient are applied to determine the new WWGRs. Comparisons with existing empirical WWGRs are made.

关键词： wind wave wind wave growth relation 3.2 power law

Rogue waves during Typhoon Trami in the East china.Sea

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Journal of oceanology and Limnology 2019年第6期37卷 1817-1836页

作者： JIANG Xingjie guan changlong WANG Daolong First institute of oceanography(FIO) Ministry of Natural Resources(MNR)Qingdao 266061China ocean university of china Qingdao 266071China

As concluded from physical theory and laboratory experiment,it is widely accepted that nonlinearities of sea state play an important role in the formation of rogue waves;however,the sea states and corresponding nonlinearities of real-world rogue wave events remain poorly *** rogue waves were recorded by a directional buoy located in the East china.Sea during Typhoon Trami in August *** study used the WAVEWATCHⅢmodel to simulate the sea state conditions pertaining to when and where those rogue waves were observed,based on which a comprehensive and full-scale analysis was *** the perspectives of wind and wave fields,wave system tracking,High-Order Spectral method simulation,and some characteristic sea state parameters,we concluded that the rogue waves occurred in sea states dominated by second-order ***,third-order modulational instabilities were suppressed in these events because of the developed or fully developed sea state determined by the typhoon wave *** method adopted in this study can provide comprehensive and full-scale analysis of rogue waves in the real *** case studied in this paper is not considered unique,and rules could be found and confirmed in relation to other typhoon sea states through the application of our proposed method.

关键词： rogue wave wave system tracking High-Order Spectral method nonlinear effect