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Evaluation of the Behaviour of Wrinkles Fibroblasts and Normal Aged Fibroblasts in the Presence of Poly-L-Lactic Acid

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Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications 2012年第1期2卷 20-27页

作者： carol courderot-masuyer Sophie Robin Helene Tauzin Philippe Humbert Bioexigence SARL Espace LafayetteBesanconFrance Department of Dermatology Laboratory of Cutaneous BiologyBesançonFrance Clinical Investigation Center BesanconFrance University of Franche-Comte BesanconFrance INSERM UMR1098 SFR FED 4234 IBCTBesanconFrance

Background: Wrinkles are characterized by changes in the organization and structure of the dermis. Human wrinkle fibroblasts (WF) have a different functional behaviour in comparison with normal-aged fibroblasts (NF). Decreases in migration capacities and collagen I synthesis are observed. Mitochondrial function is impaired with an increase in lactate production during aging. Sculptra? (poly-L-lactic acid: PLLA), a biodegradable synthetic polymer, is used for subcutaneous volume restoration. Thus we decided to investigate different fibroblast functions when placed in contact with PLLA. Objectives: The potential of PLLA to compensate for the reduction of metabolic activity, to restore the migration capacity of WF and to inhibit the lactate production, was investigated and compared to NF. Methods: Two different skin samples were used from each of the three women’s facelift (one inside a face wrinkle and one from normal aged skin). Collagen I, lactate productions and proliferation capacities were investigated on monolayer cultures. Migration properties were evaluated using three-dimensional collagen lattices. Results: PLLA increased collagen I synthesis, restored migration capacities and tended to decrease lactate production in WF, whereas PPLA stimulated proliferation in NF and tended to improve the migration of NF. Conclusion: These results suggested that PLLA from Sculptra? acted as a stimulus for collagen production in WF and that it is suitable for correcting skin depressions, such as wrinkles.

关键词： Wrinkles Poly-L-Lactic Acid Collagen Fibroblast

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Evaluation of a Preventive Effect of a Lotion on the Formation of Stretch Marks. Quantification of Contractile Forces Developed by Fibroblasts from Early Stretch Marks (Red Color) and from Healthy Surrounding Skin Using GlasBox<sup>Plus</sup>Device

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Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications 2017年第2期7卷 177-188页

作者： carol courderot-masuyer Sophie Robin Ferial Fanian Philippe Humbert Bioexigence SAS Espace Lafayette Besan&ccedil on France Research and Studies Center on the Integument (CERT) Department of Dermatology Clinical Investigation Center (CIC INSERM 1431) Besan&ccedil on University Hospital INSERM UMR1098 FED4234 IBCT University of Franche-Comté Besan&ccedil on France

Stretch marks are cutaneous lesions occurring frequently in weight gain during puberty and early adult life. Previous studies showed that highest contractile forces were developed by fibroblasts from early stretch marks (SMF) compared to those developed by fibroblasts from normal healthy skin (HF) of the same patient. The aim of the present study was to evaluate a possible preventive effect of a topical preparation (containing vitamins C and E and botanical extracts including natural extract of Calendula, Aloe Vera and Evening Primrose Oil) on the formation of stretch marks using GlasboxPlus? device. In the presence of the tested mixture, a significant overall decrease in contractile forces of SMF was noted for 24 hours of measurements compared to control SMF and made it possible to restore their capacity to the same level as HF indicating a possible preventive effect of the tested mixture. The synergistic effects of these components are certainly responsible for the decrease in contractile forces of early stretch marks fibroblasts.

关键词： Stretch Marks Fibroblasts Mechanical Forces Preventive Effect

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Evaluation of the Effects of Corticosteroids on Histamine Release by ex Vivo Cutaneous Microdialysis

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Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications 2013年第3期3卷 228-233页

作者： carol courderot-masuyer Sophie Robin Helene Tauzin Sylvain Harbon Sophie Mac-Mary Alexandre Guichard Patrice Muret Philippe Humbert Bioexigence SARL Espace Lafayette8 rue Alfred de VignyBesanconFrance Plastic Surgery 9 rue KleinSaint Vincent ClinicBesanconFrance Skinexigence SAS immeuble Bioparc2 rue du Dr Paul MilleretBesanconFrance Research and Clinicl Center on the Tegument(CERT Clinical Investigation Center(CIC BT506) Department of DermatologyBesancon University HospitalBesanconFrance Laboratory of Clinical and Toxicology Pharmacology Jean Minjoz University HospitalBesanconFrance University of Franche-Comte Inserm U1098SFR FED 4234 IBCTBesanconFrance

The purpose of the study was to evaluate the effects of corticosteroids on histamine release and to compare their potency with the MacKenzie classification based on their vasoconstrictor effects. Thanks to ex Vivo cutaneous microdialysis, we studied histamine-induced release over a period of time on excised abdominal skin from women. Eight corticosteroids were topically applied with occlusive dressing onto the skin, above probes, before anti-IgE injection. Histamine levels were assessed by an EIA method. In order to compare the different corticosteroids, AUC was calculated allowing an estimation of the amount of released histamine for 60 min of ex vivo cutaneous microdialysis. Diflucortolone 0.1% and micronized betamethasone dipropionate 0.05% are considered as corticosteroids with high potency in MacKenzie classification. Betamethasone dipropionate associated with propylene glycol 0.05%, belongs to a stronger class in Mackenzie classification. Our results showed that the decrease in histamine release was more important with difluocortolone than with both of these corticosteroids. Therefore there was no correlation between the vasoconstrictor potency of topical corticosteroids and their ability to inhibit histamine release.

关键词： MacKenzie Test Corticosteroids ex Vivo Cutaneous Microdialysis Histamine

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Use of a Model of a Blood-Induced Bruise for the Evaluation of Formulations on Bruising

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Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications 2015年第1期5卷 7-14页

作者： Sophie Robin carol courderot-masuyer Helene Tauzin Sylvain Harbon Marlene Chavagnac-Bonneville Benoit Cadars Eric Jourdan Sandra Trompezinski Philippe Humbert Bioexigence SAS Espace LafayetteBesanconFrance Plastic Surgery Saint-Vincent ClinicBesanconFrance Laboratoire Bioderma LyonFrance Naos Group Recherche Aix-en-ProvenceFrance Laboratory of Cutaneous Biology Department of DermatologyUniversity of Franche-ComteBesanconFrance

Esthetic treatments can induce swelling and bruises. Thus, a treatment that would prevent or hasten the resolution of bruising should be very useful. Generally, the regression of bruising was conducted with patients or animals models. So we decided firstly to develop an ex vivo model in order to test antibruising properties of topical formulations and secondly to evaluate a curative effect of a cream (mixture of arnica extract and apigenin) in comparison with a positive control (vulnerary cream) and also to estimate the preventive interest of this cream. The results showed that the injection of 25 μl of blood into the dermis of skin fragments was sufficient to create a model of induced-bruise. The duration of 24 hours was chosen to compare the effects of actives on the decrease in the size of the bruise. Joint effects of a pretreatment and a treatment of a mixture of arnica extract and apigenin decreased significantly the area of bruising compared to the treatment group, the control group and the positive control group. Many topical products claim to improve bruising on their package label. Our model can demonstrate their efficacy and determinate the best topical antibruising formulation. The mechanism involved in anti-inflammatory activity of active compounds of topical formulations is often not fully understood. Our blood-induced model may bring some responses through the study of mediators of the inflammation.

关键词： Bruise Apigenin Arnica Skin Explants

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Efficacy of a Biorevitalizing-Filler Solution on All Skin Aspects: 10 Years Approach through <i>in Vitro</i>Studies and Clinical Trials

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Journal of Cosmetics, Dermatological Sciences and Applications 2021年第1期11卷 18-37页

作者： Sophie Robin Férial Fanian carol courderot-masuyer Michel Tordjman Frederic Braccini Sylvie Boisnic Valérie Philippon Anne Grand Vincent Catherine Salomon Michel Manfait Philippe Humbert Philippe Piccerelle Bioexigence SAS Besan&#231 on France Laboratoires Fill-Med Paris France Aesthetic Doctor Paris France Aesthetic Surgeon Nice France Gredeco SARL Paris France Laboratoires Multaler Argenteuil France Reims University Pharmaceutical Faculty Reims France University of Bourgogne-Franche Comté Besan&#231 on France IMBE UMR CNRS 7263 IRD 237 University of Aix-Marseille Pharmaceutical Faculty Marseille France

Introduction: Skin aging is the result of many cellular dysfunctions over time particularly the fibroblasts and the keratinocytes. These dysfunctions could be decelerated by the preventive effects of some skin treatments such as Intradermal injections. NCTF 135HA has a polycomponent formulation designed to improve the efficacy of non-cross linked hyaluronic acid (as a micro-filler) on fibroblasts function. Although NCTF 135HA has been used by aesthetic practitioners since 20 years, we have analyzed all in vitro, ex vivo and in vivo studies during past 10 years in order to summarized its anti-aging effect. Methods: In these series of studies, the known effects of HA have been evaluated with this boosted formula. Collagen I synthesis, antiglycation effect and contractile forces developed by fibroblasts were studied. Fibroblasts and keratinocytes proliferations were evaluated in monolayer cells culture. The filling effect thanks to NCTF 135HA injection was ex vivo performed by fringe projection and the protective effect of NCTF 135HA against solar irradiation was performed ex vivo to study proliferation rate, elastin and collagen expression. Two clinical trials were performed on women to evaluate the anti-aging effect of NCTF 135HA injection. Hydration, firmness, radiance, wrinkles size, pore size, thickness and density of the dermis were analyzed. Results: Collagen I, anti-AGE products, cell proliferation and contractile forces were significantly increased with NCTF 135HA in culture medium. Ex vivo studies showed that NCTF 135HA increased, cells proliferation rate, elastin and collagen production. In addition, the filling effect of the NCTF 135HA is significantly superior to placebo. The first clinical trial shows that NCTF 135HA injection significantly increased tonicity, hydration and radiance of the skin and significantly decreased wrinkle score. The second clinical trial demonstrat

关键词： Mesotherapy Skin Rejuvenation NCTF 135HA® Hyaluronic Acid Skin Bio-revitalization Skin Booster

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