Surf-zone dynamics derived from basin-scale experiments
作者机构：Department of ChemicalEnvironmentaland Materials EngineeringUniversity of MiamiCoral GablesFL 33146USA
出 版 物：《Water Science and Engineering》 (水科学与水工程（英文版）)
年 卷 期：2022年第15卷第4期
页 面：273-284页
核心收录：
主 题：Currents Breaking waves Surf zone Waves Wave basins
摘 要：Surf-zone hydrodynamics forced by oblique wave shoaling and breaking on beach slopes were *** results showed that in wave-basin experiments with incident angles in the range of 15°-30°,wave breaking was initiated at a breaker coefficient of around 0.67,which was significantly less than that predicted from empirical relations based on normally incident waves for a given beach slope and deep-water wave *** measurements also showed that subsequent saturated breaking occurred at a breaker coefficient of around 0.47 that was inde-pendent of beach slope in the range of 1∶10 to 1∶*** result is likely applicable to both oblique and normally incident *** is shown that the measured wave heights and longshore velocity profiles in wave-basin studies can be reasonably well predicted by theory with proper ad-justments to the process ***-match formulations were identified for quantifying bottom friction,eddy viscosity,and energy loss due to surface rollers.
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